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Chunky Peek-A-Boo Beanie

chunky beanie pattern crochet

This chunky beanie pattern uses size 6 yarn, which makes it a nice, quick project to work up. The result is a thick, warm and modern hat! Perfect for the dead of winter and chilly nights! Literally, this is the one you should grab when it’s snowing out!

The Origin of This Pattern

crochet hat patternThe idea for this chunky beanie pattern first began when I was making my original Peek-A-Boo Beanie. Most of my patterns are made with size 4 yarn. But as I was working up the Peek-A-Boo Beanie I found myself wondering what it would look like with a super chunky yarn.

So I decided to just go for it… And I’m so glad I did.  The super chunky yarn gives the hat a whole different feel.

The Yarn For This Pattern

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For this chunky beanie pattern I chose to use Lion Brand Hometown USA yarn in Key Largo Tweed. Hometown USA is one of my favorite thicker yarns, as it is incredibly soft and comfortable!  Perfect for a warm, cozy hat.

I especially like how the tweed variation of this yarn had some wonderful pops of contrasting color sprinkled throughout. It is bright and fun and definitely added some additional interest to the project.

The Pattern

If  you would like to purchase an inexpensive, ad-free pdf version of this chunky beanie pattern, you can find it here at my Etsy shop. (scroll down for the full free pattern)

Add this pattern to your Ravelry favorites HERE.

Materials:
Size 6 Yarn (I used 2 skeins of Hometown USA in Key Largo Tweed, 128 yards total)
US M/N/9.00 mm Crochet Hook
Yarn Needle
Scissors

Gauge:
4” swatch = 9 hdc across and 7 1/3 rows tall.

My finished hat circumference at this gauge was 20”.

Stitches Used:
(sl st) slip stitch
(fhdc) foundation half double crochet
(sc) single crochet
(hdc) half double crochet
(dc) double crochet
technique: crocheting in the 3rd loop

Pattern Notes:

Beginning chain of each round does not count as a stitch.

Sizing: My finished hat circumference was 20”. This hat does not have as much stretch as a hat with a ribbed band would, so if you would like a smaller or larger fit, you may need to adjust to a smaller or larger hook. You can also adjust the number of stitches per round to the desired fit if needed, as long as you end up with an even number of stitches in each round. The number of stitches per round will stay the same throughout the pattern, so as long as you choose an even number of stitches for the round, you should be able to follow the pattern without any problems.

My stitching is also on the tight side, so if you have a looser stitch, you may need more yarn than I used.

A note regarding Foundation Half Double Crochet: It took me a few attempts to learn the foundation half double crochet, but once I got the hang of it, I now prefer it over a starting chain method. It has more stretch and gets the chain and first round done at the same time. However, if you don’t have the hang of it yet, or still prefer the starting chain method, for this pattern you can substitute the following for Round 1 of FHDC: Chain 50. Join to the first chain to create a round. Ch 1. Hdc in the same stitch and around (50). Join to the top of the first hdc with a sl st.

Round 1: Fhdc 50. Sl st to the first fhdc. (50) Use a yarn needle to connect the bottom edge of the round (see photo below).

Round 2: Ch 1. Hdc in the same stitch and around, in the 3rd loop only (see photo below). Join with a sl st to the first hdc. (50)

Note: This is a good spot to measure your band. My hat at this point was about 20” in circumference. If you would like a larger or smaller fit, you can start over with a larger or smaller hook or go back to round 1 and adjust the number of stitches per round to add or subtract width. The number of stitches per round will stay the same throughout the pattern, so as long as you choose an even number of stitches for the round, you should be able to follow the pattern without any problems.

Round 3: Repeat round 2.

Round 4: Ch 1. (this round is done in the 3rd loop) Sc in the same stitch. Dc in next stitch. Alternate sc, dc around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (50)

Round 5: Ch 2. (this round is NOT done in the 3rd loop) Dc in the same stitch. Sc in next stitch. Alternate dc and sc around. Join with a sl st to the first dc. (50)

Note: For rounds 5 through 7, taller stitches will be placed in the shorter stitches of the previous round and vice versa. So, Dc will be placed in the Sc of the previous round and then the Sc will be placed in the Dc of the previous round.

Round 6: Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch. Dc in next stitch. Alternate sc, dc around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (50)

Round 7: Ch 2. Dc in the same stitch. Hdc in next stitch. Alternate dc, hdc around. Join with a sl st to the first dc. (50)

Round 8: Ch 1. Hdc in the same stitch and around (in the 3rd loop only). Note: the 3rd loop will have a slightly different placement, depending on whether it is a hdc or dc that is crocheted into. (See photo below.) Join with a sl st into the first hdc. (50)

Round 9: Ch 1. Hdc in same stitch and around (in the 3rd loop only). Join with a sl st to the first hdc. (50)

Rounds 10 – 15: Repeat rounds 4 – 9. (50)

Round 16: Ch 1. Dc in the same stitch and around (in the 3rd loop only). Join with a sl st to the first hdc. (50)

Finish off and leave a long tail. Using a yarn needle, weave the tail in and out along the top edge of the beanie and cinch it tight (see photo below). Sew up any gaps left at the top with the yarn, make a knot and weave in the end. Add a pom pom to the top!

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More Free Beanie Patterns I Think You’ll Enjoy:

The Sand Drift Beanie

The Heart Showers Beanie

The Kimberly Hat

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Note: Feel free to sell finished products made with this pattern. If finished products are posted online, please include a reference/credit to this pattern. Do not distribute or claim the pattern as your own, or alter and use my photos to market your finished products.

14 Comments

  1. Would it be easy to add stripes into this? Presumably I could swap colours before starting a new round? When/where would I have to introduce the new yarn?

    1. Yes, you absolutely could! I would switch before and after round 3 and round 6, which would make the dc/sc alternate rows (textured rows) different than the striping rows. I would experiment with joining the new color on the joining sl st of the end of the row OR with the first stitch of the next row to see which method made your seam less noticeable.

  2. It says you used 2 balls of key largo tweed 160 yards total, when I looked up the information it says that the tweeds are 64 yards each-128 yards total. How many balls do I need? Thanks so much.

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