Crochet Ear Warmer // Peek-A-Boo Ear Warmer

One more pattern to add to my ever-growing Peek-A-Boo collection: the Peek-A-Boo Ear Warmer. Similar to the Chunky Peek-A-Boo Beanie, this crochet ear warmer pattern uses size 6 yarn to make a very quick and very warm project!

The Origin of This Pattern

When I was putting together the Chunky Peek-A-Boo Beanie pattern last month, it occurred to me that the first “section” of the hat was just about the right size to make a crochet ear warmer, or thick headband, if I was to stop and make a few adjustments, rather than go on to complete a full hat. So, I tucked the idea away to follow up on another day. And I’ve decided now is as good a time as any to follow up and make the crochet ear warmer version!

So, I’ve made some small adjustments to the original beanie pattern, taken some new photos and here you have it! A nice, quick project to work up in the new year. Now, I’m sure some of you could have figured out these adjustments all on your own from the beanie pattern, but for those of you who like it laid out for you, here you have it!

The Yarn For This Pattern

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I used the same yarn for this crochet ear warmer pattern as I did for the original beanie pattern (Lion Brand Hometown USA), since I really liked how it worked up. However, I did choose a different color for this one: Cambridge Tweed. I like how it turned out, however it is not the best color for taking good photos, so I probably should have picked another color just for that reason. It is hard to really see the wonderful textures of the headband with the black yarn. So, be sure to glance at the original beanie photos to get a better idea of the wonderful contrast in textures this pattern creates.

The Pattern

If  you would like to purchase an inexpensive, ad-free pdf version of this crochet ear warmer pattern, you can find it here at my Etsy shop. (scroll down for the full free pattern)

Add this pattern to your Ravelry favorites HERE.

Materials:
Size 6 Yarn (I used just over 1 skein of Hometown USA in Cambridge Tweed)
US N/9.00 mm Crochet Hook
Yarn Needle
Scissors

Gauge:
4” = 10 hdc

Stitches Used:
(sl st) slip stitch
(fhdc) foundation half double crochet
(sc) single crochet
(hdc) half double crochet
(hdc2tog) half double crochet two together
(dc) double
crochet technique: crocheting in the 3rd loop

Pattern Notes:
Beginning chain of each row does not count as a stitch.

My finished band circumference at this gauge was 20”. Height is 5 1/4 “.

If you would like a smaller or larger fit, you may need to adjust to a smaller or larger hook.

My gauge is also on the tight side, so if you have a looser stitch, you may need more yarn than I used.

Tutorial photos are in a different color than the cover photo so that the stitches are easier to see.

Row 1: Fhdc 50. Sl st to the first fhdc. (50) Use a yarn needle to connect the bottom edge of the row (see photo below).

Note: If you do not like the fhdc stitch, you can use a chain method to start instead: To do so, Chain 51. Hdc in the second chain from the hook and each chain across. (50)

Row 2: Ch 1. Hdc in the same stitch and around, in the 3rd loop only (see photo below). Join with a sl st to the first hdc. (50)

Note: This is a good spot to measure your band. My band at this point was about 20” in circumference. If you would like a larger or smaller fit, you can start over with a larger or smaller hook or go back to row 1 and adjust the number of stitches per row to add or remove width. Just be sure to keep the total number of stitches per row an even number. The number of stitches per row will stay the same throughout the pattern until you get to the last row, at which point you will need to recalculate in order to decrease by 4 stitches.

Row 3: Repeat row 2.

Row 4: Ch 1. (this row is done in the 3rd loop) Sc in the same stitch. Dc in the next stitch. Alternate sc, dc around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (50)

Note: For rows 5 through 7, taller stitches will be placed in the shorter stitches of the previous row and vice versa. So, Dc will be placed in the Sc of the previous row and then the Sc will be placed in the Dc of the previous row.

Row 5: Ch 2. (this row is NOT done in the 3rd loop) Dc in the same stitch. Sc in the next stitch. Alternate dc and sc around. Join with a sl st to the first dc. (50)

Row 6: Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch. Dc in the next stitch. Alternate sc, dc around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (50)

Row 7: Ch 2. Dc in the same stitch. Hdc in the next stitch. Alternate dc, hdc around. Join with a sl st to the first dc. (50)

Row 8: Ch 1. Hdc in the same stitch and around (in the 3rd loop only). Note: the 3rd loop will have a slightly different placement, depending on whether it is a hdc or dc that is crocheted into. (See photo below.) Join with a sl st into the first hdc. (50)

Row 9: Ch 1. Hdc in same stitch and around (in the 3rd loop only). Join with a sl st to the first hdc. (50)

Row 10: Ch 1. (this row is also crocheted into the 3rd loop only). Hdc in the same stitch and the next 10 stitches. Hdc2tog. Hdc in the next 10 stitches. Hdc2tog. Hdc in the next 10 stitches. Hdc2tog. Hdc in the next 11 stiches. Hdc2tog. (46) Finish off and weave in the ends.

Note: The decreases in the last row are so that the band follows the narrowing contour at the back of your head. If it does not fit this way on you and you prefer to not have the decrease, then just hdc in each stitch around (same as Row 9).

Note: Feel free to sell finished products made with this pattern. If finished products are posted online, please include a reference/credit to this pattern. Do not distribute or claim the pattern as your own, or alter and use my photos to market your finished products.