Cascades Pillow

This crochet pillow pattern uses the waistcoat stitch in the round to create a knit-look texture. The use of fair isle crochet (the technique of alternating colors without finishing off to create a design) and  changing colors mid-stitch creates the floating ‘v’ shapes throughout the design. Using a variegated color yarn for the contrasting color creates the illusion of may colors of yarn, but it is really just two different yarns used in the pattern.

THE ORIGIN OF THIS PATTERN

It was a combination of two inspirations that led me to create this crochet pillow pattern. A few months ago I was busy putting together my Heart Showers Beanie Pattern. That was the first time I had worked with the waistcoat stitch for one of my patterns. Whenever I try a new stitch I am flooded with ideas for other items I could create with the same stitch.

In the midst of my brainstorming I also ran across this amazing pattern… the Goldenrod Sweater from Eleven Handmade. I thought the design was so very lovely with the “cascading” columns. I couldn’t help but notice the similar effect that could be created with the waistcoat stitch and ‘wa-la’, the Cascade Pillow was birthed!

THE YARN FOR THIS PATTERN

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To choose the yarn for this crochet pillow pattern I started with the color. I really wanted to be able to actually use the pillow I made in my own home, so I looked for colors that would fit into my bedroom.

I also needed something that was variegated, in order to create the many pops of color throughout. However, it needed to be a quick color change in order to get enough of a variety of color within a few rows. There couldn’t be a lot of space between changes. I also wanted something chunky to give the pillow a soft and plush feel. I roamed the aisles of Joann’s and finally landed on Wool-Ease Thick & Quick in Fisherman and Coney Island.

I’m super happy with how it turned out. The colors of the Coney Island changed at just the right rate and the Fisheman is such a rich and smooth cream tone.  It definitely has all the squish and chunk I was hoping for too!

The Pattern

If  you would like to purchase an inexpensive, ad-free pdf version of this crochet pillow pattern, you can find it here at my Etsy shop. (scroll down for the full free pattern)

Add this crochet pillow pattern to your Ravelry favorites HERE.

Materials:
– 212 yards of size 6 yarn in a neutral color (I used Wool-Ease Thick & Quick in Fisherman)
– 44 yards of size 6 yarn in a variegated color (I used Wool-Ease Thick & Quick in Coney Island)
– 14 inch pillow form
– Size P/ 11.5 mm crochet hook
– Yarn needle
– Scissors

Gauge:
4 X 4 inch swatch of waistcoat stitches = 9 rows X 7 ½ stitches

Abbreviations:
(sl st) slip stitch
(ch) chain
(sc) single crochet
(wst) waistcoat stitch (also sometimes called Center Post Single Crochet or Knit Stitch)
Color A = Main Color
Color B = Secondary Color

Pattern Notes:

This pattern is worked in rounds. You may find it helpful to use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.

Waistcoat stitch in the round tends to lean a little to the left. One thing that can lessen this a little is to make sure the join for each row is very tight.

When crocheting the waistcoat stitch, you need to take extra care to crochet loosely (especially if you are a tight crocheter like me). Loosen each stitch a little as you go so that it is easier to insert the hook on the next row. This may take a bit of practice if this is your first time using the stitch.

If you are unable to achieve the same gauge, then you may choose to adjust the number of stitches per row. This means you may need to adjust the design on the front of the pillow.

Chain 1 and first stitch of each round is always with Color A. Whenever you stitch with Color B, you will finish the stitch with Color A (see photo directions for “adding the v’s” on page 4).

*    *    *    *    *    *    *    *    *    *

Leaving a long tail, chain 48. To fit a 14 inch pillow snuggly, this chain should be about 24 inches long. Join with a sl st to form a circle.

Round 1: Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch and around (loosely). Join with a sl st to the first sc. (48)

How to complete the waistcoat stitch:

Round 2: Ch 1. Wst into the first sc. Wst into the next 23 stitches. Sc into the next 24 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first wst of the round. (48).

Round 3: Ch 1. Wst in the next 24 stitches. Sc in the next 24 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first wst of the round. (48)

A note about sizing: This is a good point to go ahead and slip what you have so far around the pillow. If it has a nice fit (snug, like a gentle hug), then keep going. If it is baggy, or so tight that it scrunches up the pillow, then go back and adjust your gauge.

A note about adding columns of color B in the next step: You have 3 options for how you can add your columns of alternating color… 1) you can follow my text directions row by row below, 2) you can follow the chart at the bottom of this page for the front of the pillow, or 3) you can just wing it and put the colors where you like as you go.

If you are using option 2 and following the chart, then you will use the chart for the 24 waistcoat stitches on the front of the pillow (white being Color A and grey being Color B) and then complete the round with 24 single crochets for the back of the pillow, joining up to the first waistcoat stitch of the round with a slip stitch to finish the round. Each round starts with a ch 1 and then the waistcoat stitches for the front of the pillow.

How to Add the “V’s” with Color B:

Round 4: Ch 1. Wst in the first stitch. Wst in next stitch with color B (following the photo directions above). Wst in next 5 stitches with color A. Wst in next stitch with Color B. Wst in next 14 stitches with color A. Wst in next stitch with color B. Drop Color B and pick it up when needed in the next round (see photo below on dropping and picking up colors). Wst in next stitch with color A. Sc in next 24 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first wst of the round. (48)

Round 5: Ch 1. Wst in the next 24 stitches. Sc in the next 24 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first wst of the round. (48)

Tip: When doing a waistcoat stich over a row that contains “carried” yarn, it helps to be sure to insert the hook low enough in the “v” of the previous stitch to go under the string of carried yarn in the previous row. If you go too high, it is easier to accidentally catch on the carried yarn and then have the carried yarn color show through to the front of the work where you don’t want it to. If this does happen, you can either do the stitch again more carefully, or you can find the carried yarn on the back of your work and give it a gentle tug to pull it back to the wrong side of your work.

Round 6: Ch 1. Wst in the first stitch. Wst in the next stitch with color B. Wst in the next 5 stitches with Color A. Wst in the next stitch with Color B. Wst in the next 14 stitches with Color A. Wst in the next stitch with Color B. Drop Color B and pick it up when needed in the next round. Wst in next stitch with color A. Sc in next 24 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first wst of the round. (48)

Round 7: Ch 1. Wst in the first 10 stitches. Wst in the next stitch with Color B. Wst in the next 13 stitches with Color A. Sc in next 24 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first wst of the round. (48)

Round 8: Ch 1. Wst in the first stitch. Wst in the next stitch with color B. Wst in the next 5 stitches with Color A. Wst in the next stitch with Color B. Wst in the next 8 stitches with Color A. Wst in the next stitch with Color B. Wst in the next 5 stitches with Color A. Wst in next stitch with color B. Drop Color B and pick it up when needed in the next round. Wst in next stitch with color A. Sc in next 24 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first wst of the round. (48)

Round 9: Ch 1. Wst in the first 10 stitches. Wst in the next stitch with Color B. Drop Color B and pick it up when needed in the next round. Wst in the next 13 stitches with Color A. Sc in next 24 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first wst of the round. (48)

Round 10: Ch 1. Wst in the first stitch. Wst in the next stitch with color B. Wst in the next 5 stitches with Color A. Wst in the next stitch with Color B. Wst in the next 8 stitches with Color A. Wst in the next stitch with Color B. Wst in the next 5 stitches with Color A. Wst in next stitch with color B. Drop Color B and pick it up when needed in the next round. Wst in next stitch with color A. Sc in next 24 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first wst of the round. (48)

Round 11: Ch 1. Wst in the first 4 stitches. Wst in the next stitch with Color B. Wst stitch in the next 5 stitches with Color A. Wst in the next stitch with Color B. Wst in the next 8 stitches with Color A. Wst in the next stitch with Color B. Drop Color B and pick it up when needed in the next round. Wst in the next 4 stitches with Color A. Sc in next 24 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first wst of the round. (48)

Round 12: Ch 1. Wst in the first stitch. Wst in the next stitch with color B. Wst in the next 5 stitches with Color A. Wst in the next stitch with Color B. Wst in the next 8 stitches with Color A. Wst in the next stitch with Color B. Wst in the next 5 stitches with Color A. Wst in next stitch with color B. Drop Color B and pick it up when needed in the next round. Wst in next stitch with color A. Sc in next 24 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first wst of the round. (48)

Round 13: Ch 1. Wst in the first 4 stitches. Wst in the next stitch with color B. Wst in the next 5 stitches with Color A. Wst in the next stitch with Color B. Wst in the next 2 stitches with Color A. Wst in the next stitch with Color B. Wst in the next 5 stitches with Color A. Wst in the next stitch with Color B. Drop Color B and pick it up when needed in the next round. Wst in the next 4 stitches with Color A. Sc in next 24 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first wst of the round. (48)

Round 14: Ch 1. Wst in the first stitch. Wst in the next stitch with color B. Wst in the next 5 stitches with Color A. Wst in the next stitch with Color B. Wst in the next 8 stitches with Color A. Wst in the next stitch with Color B. Wst in the next 5 stitches with Color A. Wst in next stitch with color B. Drop Color B and pick it up when needed in the next round. Wst in next stitch with color A. Sc in next 24 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first wst of the round. (48)

Round 15: Ch 1. Wst in the first 4 stitches. Wst in the next stitch with color B. Wst in the next 5 stitches with Color A. Wst in the next stitch with Color B. Wst in the next 2 stitches with Color A. Wst in the next stitch with Color B. Wst in the next 5 stitches with Color A. Wst in the next stitch with Color B. Drop Color B and pick it up when needed in the next round. Wst in the next 4 stitches with Color A. Sc in next 24 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first wst of the round. (48)

Round 16: Ch 1. Wst in the first stitch. Wst in the next stitch with color B. Wst in the next 5 stitches with Color A. Wst in the next stitch with Color B. Wst in the next 8 stitches with Color A. Wst in the next stitch with Color B. Wst in the next 5 stitches with Color A. Wst in next stitch with color B. Drop Color B and pick it up when needed in the next round. Wst in next stitch with color A. Sc in next 24 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first wst of the round. (48)

Round 17-30: Alternate rows 15 and 16 for the remainder of the pattern. I went to 30 rows. You can adjust this to more or less if needed to fit your pillow. When you complete your last row, leave a nice long tail when you finish off and don’t weave it in. You will use this to sew up the top of the pillow.

Using your long tail at the bottom of the pillow, whip stitch the lower edges together (I did this with right sides facing out and it looked fine). Weave in ends as needed throughout the pillow. Fit pillow form into the cover. Adjust as needed. Waistcoat stitches tend to drift a little to the left, so you may need to adjust a little to get everything straight. If you find you need to add or remove rows to create the best fit, do so now. When ready, with the pillow inserted in the cover, use the long tail at the top of the project to whip stitch the top edges together. Weave in end.

Note: Because of the tendency to lean to the left with the waistcoat stitch, you can end up with the upper left corner and lower right corner sticking out a little further than the others. Do your best to straighten as much as possible before weaving in ends and, if needed, you can tuck a slight bit of those corners in when weaving in the ends.

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Note: Feel free to sell finished products made with this pattern. If finished products are posted online, please include a reference/credit to this pattern. Do not distribute or claim the pattern as your own, or alter and use my photos to market your finished products.