Heart Showers Beanie // Crochet Hat Pattern

I’ve been working hard to get this crochet heart hat pattern done in plenty of time for Valentine’s Day! This hat is full of color and contrast and neat, tidy rows… making it a real show stopper!

I would say this is my first pattern that I would label as intermediate. This heart hat pattern involves a unique stitch (the waistcoat stitch), combined with fair isle crochet (the technique of alternating colors without finishing off to create a design) and includes changing colors mid-stitch. But don’t worry, I’ve included lots of detailed step-by-step instructions with photos to make it as easy as I possibly can! Because it is totally worth the effort!

The Origin Of This Pattern

I’ve been intrigued for a while by the technique of combining the waistcoat stitch and fair isle crochet, especially when switching colors before completing the stitch to create a design that resembles tiny floating hearts. I first tried my hand at the technique with Whistle & Ivy’s Snowfall Slouchy Hat. I really enjoyed the technique and the delicate design it created.

As I started looking ahead to Valentine’s Day, I wondered whether I could create a heart shape with the waistcoat stitch… and not just a solid heart, but one in which the stitches alternated in color, creating a pattern of tiny falling hearts within the shape of the larger heart.

As I was putting the heart hat pattern together I got the additional idea of adding the cascading hearts to the top of the hat, finishing off the “heart showers” theme that was coming together. I was really excited about the combination.



The Yarn For This Pattern

This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive compensation (at no additional cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links.

When I first envisioned this heart hat pattern I was picturing the colored yarn in a variegated red shade for Valentine’s Day. However, when I got to the store to pick it out, I could not find what I was picturing in my mind anywhere. I’m pretty sure it was probably previously located in one of the empty, sold out bins that I came across that evening. Since I really wanted to get started on the project (anyone else as impatient as me when it comes to starting a new project?), I looked around for other color ideas.

I finally landed on Caron Simply Soft Stripes in Times Square. I don’t normally gravitate towards pinks and purples, so this was a different color theme for me. But it was a fun Valentine’s Day color… and I really wanted something with color changes… so I went with it. And I’m so glad I did! I’m already a big fan of Caron Simply Soft… it is silky smooth and the sheen is beautiful. But this color was just fun too. Working with it had all the vibes of cotton candy and unicorns! It was sweet and bright and romantic. I loved it!

For the white, I simply chose one of my other favorites from my stash: Premier Deborah Norville Everyday in Snow White. This yarn is just squishy and luxurious. It never disappoints!


The Pattern

If  you would like to purchase an inexpensive, ad-free pdf version of this crochet heart hat pattern, you can find it here at my Etsy shop. (scroll down for the full free pattern)

Add this heart hat pattern to your Ravelry favorites HERE.

Materials:
– Size 4 yarn, in 2 contrasting colors (I used less than one skein each of Premier Deborah Norville Everyday in Snow White and Caron Simply Soft Stripes in Times Square)
US J/6.00 mm Crochet Hook
Yarn Needle
– Scissors

Gauge:
4” = 15 waistcoat stitches across and 20 waistcoat stitch rows

Abbreviations:
(sl st) slip stitch
(ch) chain
(sc) single crochet
(wst) waistcoat stitch (also sometimes called Center Post Single Crochet or Knit Stitch)
(wst2tog) waistcoat stitch two together
(CA) Color A (for band, heart and top of hat)
(CB) Color B (for background color)
technique: crocheting in the back loop

Pattern Notes:

Beginning chain of each row does not count as a stitch.

My finished band circumference at this gauge was about 18”. This is a small adult size. If you would like a smaller or larger fit, you may need to adjust to a smaller or larger hook, or adjust the number of rows in your band (and thus the number of stitches in each round).

My gauge is also on the tight side, so if you have a looser stitch, you may need more yarn than I used.

When crocheting the waistcoat stitch, you need to take extra care to crochet loosely (especially if you are a tight crocheter like me). Loosen each stitch a little as you go so that it is easier to insert the hook on the next row. This may take a bit of practice if this is your first time using the stitch.

When you are working on the rows with the “heart” shape, you can choose to “drop” the second color after using it and “picking it up” when you come back up to the next row (see photos), or you can “carry it around” the circumference of the hat. I chose to drop it, as it uses less yarn this way and I will insert reminders in the pattern of where to drop it and pick it up. On the last rows where you alternate colors all the way around, you will carry both colors with you around the hat. (photos for how to “pick up,” “drop,” and “carry” are included in the pattern).

Ch 1 at the beginning of each row is always with Color B, unless otherwise noted.

This pattern is worked in rounds (after the band is complete). You may find it helpful to use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.

Band

Using the color of yarn you have selected for your band (CA = Color A), chain 9.

Row 1: Sc in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across. (8)

Row 2: Ch 1. (Working in the back loop only, see photo below) Sc in the same stitch and in each stitch across. (8)

Rows 3-78: Repeat row 2.

Note: At this point my band was roughly 18” long. If you want a larger or smaller band, you can increase or decrease rows, or start over with a different size hook.

Put the two ends of the band together and stitch together with a slip stitch. Now the band is complete and you can begin on the body of the hat (you will not finish off, but continue with the same yarn to work along one edge of the band).

If preferred, you can turn the band inside out so that the seam is not visible.

Body

Round 1: Continuing with the same yarn (CA) you used on your band, hold your band so that it is in the position to be worn (horizontal) and chain 1. Sc one sc in each row of the band around. Join with a sl stitch to the first sc of the round. (78) Finish off and weave in ends.

Note: if you adjusted your number of rows in your band, your number of stitches per round in the body will be different.

Note: you will want to begin to crochet more loosely than you normally would in Round 2.

Round 2: Join second color (CB = Color B) to the first stitch of Round 1. Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch and around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. (78)

How to Crochet the Waistcoat Stitch:

Round 3: Ch 1. Wst into the same stitch (the one directly beneath your chain 1) and each stitch around. Join with a sl st to the first stitch of the round. (78)

Note: If you joined your Color B to the first stitch of Round 2 as directed, then the first wst of Round 3 might be a little awkward, needing to go into the stitch directly under your Ch1. The first stitch of subsequent rounds will not be right underneath the chain like this and will be less awkward.

Round 4: Ch 1. Wst into each stitch around. Join with a sl st to the first stitch of the round. (78)

Round 5: Ch 1. Wst CB (Color B) in the first 25 stitches. Wst CA in the next st. However, only do the first yarn over and pull through with Color A. Do the final yarn over and pull through both loops with color B (see photos below). (drop CA) Wst CB in the next 52 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first stitch of the round. (78)

Note: When using the waistcoat stitch in this pattern, always end the stitch (last yarn over and pull through) with Color B, even when the stitch is with Color A, unless otherwise noted. This is what creates the “V” effect.

Round 6: Ch 1. Wst CB in the first 24 stitches. Pick up CA (see photos below regarding “picking up” colors). Wst CA in next stitch. Wst CB in next stitch. Wst CA in next stitch. (drop CA). Wst CB in the next 51 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first stitch of the round. (78)

Round 7: Ch 1. Wst CB in the first 23 stitches. Pick up CA. Wst CA in next stitch. Wst CB in next stitch. Wst CA in next stitch. Wst CB in next stitch. Wst CA in next stitch (drop CA). Wst CB in the next 50 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first stitch of the round. (78)

Round 8: Ch 1. Wst CB in the first 22 stitches. Pick up CA. Wst CA in next stitch. Wst CB in next stitch. Wst CA in next stitch. Wst CB in next stitch. Wst CA in next stitch. Wst CB in next stitch. Wst CA in next stitch (drop CA). Wst CB in the next 49 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first stitch of the round. (78)

Round 9: Ch 1. Wst CB in the first 21 stitches. Pick up CA. Wst CA in next stitch. Wst CB in next stitch. Wst CA in next stitch. Wst CB in next stitch. Wst CA in next stitch. Wst CB in next stitch. Wst CA in next stitch. Wst CB in next stitch. Wst CA in next stitch (drop CA). Wst CB in the next 48 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first stitch of the round. (78)

Round 10: Ch 1. Wst CB in the first 20 stitches. Pick up CA. Wst CA in next stitch. Wst CB in next stitch. Wst CA in next stitch. Wst CB in next stitch. Wst CA in next stitch. Wst CB in next stitch. Wst CA in next stitch. Wst CB in next stitch. Wst CA in next stitch. Wst CB in next stitch. Wst CA in next stitch (drop CA). Wst CB in the next 47 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first stitch of the round. (78)

Round 11: Ch 1. Wst CB in the first 19 stitches. Pick up CA. Wst CA in next stitch. Wst CB in next stitch. Wst CA in next stitch. Wst CB in next stitch. Wst CA in next stitch. Wst CB in next stitch. Wst CA in next stitch. Wst CB in next stitch. Wst CA in next stitch. Wst CB in next stitch. Wst CA in next stitch. Wst CB in next stitch. Wst CA in next stitch (drop CA). Wst CB in the next 46 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first stitch of the round. (78)

Round 12: Repeat Round 10.

Round 13: Repeat Round 11.

Round 14: Repeat Round 10.

Round 15: Repeat Round 11.

Round 16: Repeat Round 10.

Round 17: Ch 1. Wst CB in the first 21 stitches. Pick up CA. Wst CA in the next stitch. Wst CB in the next stitch. Wst CA in the next stitch. Wst CB in the next 3 stitches. Wst CA in the next stitch. Wst CB in the next stitch. Wst CA in the next stitch. (drop CA) Wst CB in the next 48 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first stitch of the round. (78)

Note: At this point, if you like your heart as it is and do not wish to add the “pointed top” as seen in the photos, then instead of following the directions for Round 18, you could skip to Round 19 and complete that round twice (so directions for rounds 18-21 would all be repeats of the directions for Round 19). But if you like the pointed tops for the heart, go ahead and complete the following directions as stated.

Round 18: Ch 1. Wst CB in the first 22 stitches. Pick up CA. Wst CA in the next stitch. Wst CB in the next 5 stitches. Wst CA in the next stitch. (drop color A) Wst CB in the next 49 stitches. Join with a sl st to the first stitch of the round. (78)

Round 19: Ch 1. Wst (CB) into each stitch around. Join with a sl st to the first stitch of the round. (78)

Rounds 20 – 21: Repeat Row 19. (78)

Round 22: Ch 1. Wst CB in the first 4 stitches. Pick up CA (from this point on, carry both colors with you until Round 28). Wst CA in the next stitch. *Wst CB in the next 4 stitches. Wst CA in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * until there are 3 stitches remaining in the row. Wst CB in next 2 stitches. Wst CA in last stitch. Join with CB sl st to the first stitch of the round. (78)

Round 23: Ch 1. Wst CB in the first two stitches. Wst CA in next stitch. *Wst CB in next 2 stitches. Wst CA in next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with CB sl st to the first stitch of the round. (78)

Round 24: Ch 1. Wst CA in first stitch. Wst CB in next two stitches. *Wst CA in next stitch. Wst CB in next two stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with CB sl st to the first stitch of the round. (78)

Round 25: Ch 1. Wst CB in the first stitch. Wst CA in the next stitch. *Wst CB in the next stitch. Wst CA in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with CB sl st to the first stitch of the round. (78)

Round 26: Ch 1. Wst CA in the first stitch. Wst CB in the next stitch. * Wst CA in the next stitch. Wst CB in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with CB sl st to the first stitch of the round. (78)

Round 27: Ch 1. Wst CA in the first two stitches. Wst CB in the next stitch. *Wst CA in the next two stitches. Wst CB in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with CB sl st to the first stitch of the round. (78)

Round 28: Ch 1. Wst CA in the first three stitches. Wst CB in the next stitch. *Wst CA in the next three stitches. Wst CB in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around until 2 stitches remain in the row. Wst CA in the last two stitches. Join with CA sl st to the first stitch of the round. (78) Drop Color B and finish it off. Continue the rest of the pattern with only Color A.

Round 29: Ch 1. Wst in each stitch around. Sl st to the first stitch of the round. (78)

Round 30: Repeat Round 29. (78)

Note: This is where you could add some height to the hat if you would like it to be a little taller and/or to have a bit more color. You could repeat Round 29 until you feel like it is the height you like.

How to Crochet the Wst2tog:

Round 31: Ch 1. Wst2tog around (see photo above). Join with a sl st to the first stitch in the round. (39)

Round 32: Ch 1. Wst2tog around. Wst in the last remaining stitch of the row. Join with a sl st to the first stitch of the round. (20)

Note: The next step is to cinch up the top. If you feel the opening at the top of the hat is too large to cinch nicely after round 32, you could complete another round of Wst2tog to achieve a smaller hole with a total of 10 stitches, making it a little easier to cinch.

After round 32 (or round 33 if you choose to add one), fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use the tail to weave in and out along the top of the hat and cinch tight (see photo below). Secure with a knot and weave in ends.

Add a pom pom!

Note: Feel free to sell finished products made with this pattern. If finished products are posted online, please include a reference/credit to this pattern. Do not distribute or claim the pattern as your own, or alter and use my photos to market your finished products.

If you love hats with lots of details, you might also like my Peek-A-Boo Beanie Pattern.

Please follow & share!

24 thoughts on “Heart Showers Beanie // Crochet Hat Pattern”

    1. Hi Jan! I think if you just did the band to the width you wanted, and then the heart is situated closer to the starting chain of each row (in other words sits to the left side of your head, rather than centered), so I think if you followed the pattern on each row up to the end of the heart and then just completed the row in white, it seems like it would work. The heart will just end up more centered, or to the right, depending on the sizing. Then for the color along the top, the point is just to stagger the color, so I think you could just follow the repeats for each row for the number of stitches you’ve decided on and it will still work. Let me know if you try and how it goes! I would like to put together all the different sizes, but I don’t think I’ll be able to pull it off soon! So glad you like the pattern! 🙂

    1. This stitch gets easier, the more you do it the easier it gets, I use it for all hats, socks, tops, any time I need a nice tight weve.
      I have been using this stitch for over 40 years, this is the very first time I see this stitch done the same way I do it used in a pattern… I have always called Cindy’s knit stitch or My knit stitch, because it looks like you knitted the hat instead of crocheted..
      I started to teach people this stitch a few years ago, I had never seen it used before, I have never seen it taught or used in any of the 5 stitch books I have..
      I start showing people how and now I see it here under the name Waistcoat stitch.???
      I should have had it documented and copy writers years ago, I just never had the money or know how to do it..
      But this is a great stitch, and when it is done correctly and you go threw the center V of both front and back side of the stitch, this stitch looks the same on both sides which allows it to be used in both the round and on panels that go back and forth where both sides need to look the same.
      I love this stitch.. I have used it on thousands of items over the years.
      I love this hat, thank you for the pattern.

  1. I love this hat and I love pink and purple..lol..

    But my problem is I can’t find the 3rd loop in the back.. I have no problems finding the 3rd loop when I do it with hdc or dc stitch.. I may be looking at it wrong.. lol

    1. Hi Robin! The third loop and back loop are different loops. The back loop is one of the two loops you normally crochet into, just the one further away from you. Does that make sense? I can see how the photo could be confusing if you already know how to crochet in the 3rd loop!

  2. I love this hat. My question, when picking up the color for the heart stitches, I now have long lines of yarn on the inside of the hat. The heart looks right but did I do something wrong that the inside looks messy?

    1. Hi Susan! This is correct. The way to avoid this is to carry both colors with you all the way around the hat as you crochet. This will make it neater on the inside, but will also use more yarn. It’s really whatever method you prefer to use. Hope that helps!

  3. Thanks so much! I made one for my daughter (5)…she loves it. Used a 5mm hook and did 68 rows to start. Hope that helps others with sizing. I’m now trying to make a scarf to match. 🙂

  4. First of all, adorable! Secondly, I have questions 🙂

    You say the ch 1 will always be with color b, and each round says to join with a slip stitch at the end, but in the notes it says it’s worked in rounds after the brim? My heart is slanting to the left and I’m assuming it’s because of the join. I need to start over with a smaller hook so I thought I would ask 🙂

    Thanks!

    1. Hi Kamille. Glad you like the hat. Crocheting in the round just means crocheting in a circle, rather than a back and forth pattern. This can mean crocheting around and joining, or crocheting in a continuous spiral. This pattern does use a join. My rows do slant slightly to the left, but not enough to be noticeable on the heart. Perhaps tightening up the join might help a bit? I’m sure you could also adjust the pattern to crochet in a spiral instead of joining if you prefer to try it. I’d love to hear how the method worked out if you do! 🙂

      1. I also seem to have my hat slanting to the left. I was so proud of myself getting the heart done, looked almost perfect. Finished the hat, then had to laugh, it does slant to the left. I will have to rip it and try again. Just not ready to start over. The one you made is beautiful, wish I could duplicate it.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *