Checkered Crossbody Bag Pattern | Free Crochet Pattern

This checkered crossbody bag pattern is the perfect size for just the essentials… a phone, a few cards and some cash. Big enough to hold what you need, but not so big as to be heavy and cumbersome.

Checkers are having a major moment right now, so this little bag is the perfect accessory! If you have never crocheted a checker pattern before and would like to start with something a little simpler, you should give the Checkered Crochet Coasters a try!

What kind of yarn should you use for your crossbody bag?

Generally, you could use almost any kind of yarn you like for a checkered crossbody bag pattern. However, I will say that cotton is a particularly good choice for any kind of purse or bag.

Purses and bags tend to take a lot of wear as they get dragged about on all our outings. It is nice when they are made of a material like cotton that is fairly durable and can handle washing when needed. (You can learn more about cotton yarn and what it is good for in my Ultimate Guide to Crocheting With Cotton.)

For my bag I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton. Besides being made of 100% cotton, it also happens to be a particularly soft brand of cotton yarn. It is nice to have an item that is soft and comfortable when it will be handled a lot and worn against the body.

The Pattern

If  you would like to purchase an inexpensive, ad-free printable pdf version of this checkered crossbody bag pattern, you can find it here at my Etsy shop.

Add this checkered crossbody bag pattern using cotton yarn to your Ravelry favorites HERE.

Materials:

• 50 Yards Size 4 Cotton Yarn in Main Color (I used I Love This Cotton in Sage)
• 50 Yards Size 4 Cotton Yarn in Contrasting Color (I used I Love This Cotton in Ivory)
• US H/ 5 mm Crochet Hook
• Yarn Needle
• Scissors

Gauge:

4” x 4” swatch of dc stitches (constructed while carrying the other color yarn, as directed in the pattern) = 18 stitches x 8 ½ rows

Final Size:

4 ¾” wide x 7” tall (not including strap)

Stitches Used:

(ch) chain
(sl st) slip stitch
(sc) single crochet
(dc) double crochet

Pattern Notes:

Beginning chain of each round does not count as a stitch.

Gauge is not terribly important for this pattern since it is not a fitted item. However, for reference, I tend to crochet tightly. If you feel you are crocheting too loosely or tightly you can move to a smaller or larger hook.

For this pattern you will be using the method of “carrying” your yarn. This enables you to switch colors frequently without having to finish off and weave in lots of ends. To carry the yarn, after switching colors, you will hold the strand of yarn that you are not using along the top of the last row as you stitch. Treat the strand as if it is part of the top of your last row and insert your new stitches around the strand, just as you would stitch around the chains of the previous row. See this video tutorial on carrying yarn if you need further help:

Here are 2 tips to help you to keep your “carried” color from showing through: 1) Every once in a while (usually after you’ve finished a few stitches of one color) give the “carried” yarn a gentle tug. Not so much as to warp your fabric, but just enough to make sure it is taught. This will keep it at the center of your work. 2) Make sure your weave is tight (or dense) enough. A more loose fabric will make it easier to see through it.

Every time you make a color change, you will do so at the end of the last stitch of the previous color. So, if you end your main color with a dc stitch, on your final yarn over and pull through of that stitch, you will drop the main color and yarn over and pull through with the new color.

Pattern:

Using color A (I used Sage) chain 22.

Row 1: Dc in the 3rd loop from the hook. Dc in each of the next 3 chains. At the end of the last stitch, change colors to color B. While carrying your first color, dc in the next 4 stitches. Change back to color A. While carrying color B, dc in the next 4 stitches. Change to color B. While carrying color A, dc in the next 4 stitches. Change to color A. While carrying color B, dc in the next 4 stitches. (20)

Note: For all the subsequent rows you will continue to carry the yarn that you are not currently stitching with. This will no longer be noted in the pattern, but you should continue to do it for the remainder of the rows.

Row 2: Chain 1 with both colors. Then chain 1 again with only your color A (the color you will be using next). This will line your carried yarn up in the right place for the next row. Dc in the same stitch and the next 3 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors, Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors, dc in the next 4 stitches. (20)

Note: The next row will be the same, but switching the placement of the colors to begin the checkered pattern. The checkered pattern will be formed by lining up the color blocks for two rows and then switching placement for the next two rows, and so on.

Row 3: Chain 1 with both colors. Then chain 1 again with only your color B (the color you will be using next). Dc in the same stitch and the next 3 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors, Dc in the next 4 stitches. (20)

Row 4: Chain 1 with both colors. Then chain 1 again with only your color B (the color you will be using next). This will line your carried yarn up in the right place for the next row. Dc in the same stitch and the next 3 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors, dc in the next 4 stitches. (20)

Row 5: Chain 1 with both colors. Then chain 1 again with only your color A (the color you will be using next). This will line your carried yarn up in the right place for the next row. Dc in the same stitch and the next 3 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors, dc in the next 4 stitches. (20)

Row 6: Chain 1 with both colors. Then chain 1 again with only your color A (the color you will be using next). This will line your carried yarn up in the right place for the next row. Dc in the same stitch and the next 3 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors, dc in the next 4 stitches. (20)

Rows 7 – 32: Repeat Rows 3 – 6. You will end on a repeat of Row 4.

Note: your project should be approximately 15” tall and 4” wide.

Sewing it together

Fold the bottom edge up to the top of row 26, leaving a flap of 6 rows at the top.

Attach your main color A yarn to the bottom right corner of the project. Chain 1. Sc along the right edge, sewing the two sides together. You should have 3-4 stitches for each color square (2 dc rows). The exact number is not as important as whether your work is smooth and laying flat (not bunching) and that you count the final number of stitches on that side. You will make sure to stitch the same number of sc on the opposing side. When you get to the flap (single layer) just continue crocheting along the edge until you reach the top right corner.

When you reach the top right corner, add one extra sc to the corner, then begin to sc along the top row (1 sc per stitch, 20 stitches). At the end of the row, add one extra sc to the left top corner. Turn and begin working down the left side.

Sc down the left side, in the same manner as the right side. Be sure to crochet the same number of stitches down this side. When you reach the corner, add one extra stitch.

Turn and work along the bottom row. This is a little wonky, since you are working into a fold, rather than stitches. Just try to grab one strand from each stitch that is along the fold, for a total of 20 sc along the bottom edge. When you reach the corner, add one extra sc to the corner and then use a sl st to join to the first sc of the border. Finish off and weave in ends.

Fold flap down to close the purse.

Adding a strap

Attach main color A yarn to the corner of the top right fold. Secure with a knot.

Chain the length that you desire for your strap. Attach the strap to the opposing corner with a slip stitch. (I chained 118 for a length of 33 inches.)

Work back up the strap, placing one sc in each chain. Place the first sc into the corner of the bag where the slip stitch was placed, to secure the strap a little better, then start working along the chain. When you reach the other side, place the last stitch in the stitch where the chain was initially started. Finish with a slip stitch into an adjacent stitch. Finish off and weave in ends.