Crochet Cosmetics Bag Pattern
This crochet cosmetics bag pattern is super cute and simple. No zippers, drawstrings or snaps to worry about. You just crochet two matching handles and tie them together to secure whatever you decide to put inside.

I designed this crochet cosmetics bag pattern specifically to hold makeup or cosmetics, but you could really use it for anything! Art supplies, game pieces and, of course… crochet hooks! This bag would be great for storing something decoratively on a counter, tucked away in a drawer, or in your suitcase while you travel.
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Types of Crochet Cosmetics Bag Patterns
What is your favorite way to store your cosmetics? Once you start looking around at your options, you’ll find there are quite a few out there. Here are the types that I have found:
- The Pencil Pouch – This design is usually just like the pouches you used to use in elementary school to hold your pencils, scissors and erasers! Basically it’s just two rectangles sewn together flat, with a zipper enclosure at the top edge. You toss everything in and zip it shut.
- The Box – Instead of being flat, this option is 3-d. It is a cube, or box shape. The top lid usually zips around the top 3 edges to close or can be closed with a clamp of some kind. The top can be lifted up and down to open and access the contents, kind of like a mini suitcase. The box can be made of fabric or a hard plastic.
- The Drawstring Pouch – This bag is usually a circle shape with a cord wrapped in and out around the outer edge of the circle. The cord is pulled tight to close the circle and secure the contents.
- Pouch with Handle Ties – This is of course the design we are talking about today. It is a rectangular shaped bag with a handle at each short end that can be used to tie the top of the bag shut.
Drawstring Makeup Bag
If you’d like to see another makeup bag design, check out my Drawstring Makeup Bag!

Do You Need a Liner for your Cosmetics Bag?
A fabric liner in a crochet bag can make a really nice additional touch. It ensures that there are no holes or gaps for anything to sneak through. It also has a nice visual effect when using a matching fabric, giving it a very finished look.
However, for this bag in particular, I don’t think you need a liner. The single crochet stitch makes a nice and tight weave. I don’t think anything will get through unless you’re carrying something super tiny, like beads!

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The Pattern
If you would like to purchase an inexpensive, ad-free printable pdf version of this crochet cosmetics bag pattern, you can find it here at my Etsy shop.
Add this easy crochet cosmetics bag pattern to your Ravelry favorites HERE.

Materials:
- I Love This Cotton weight 4 worsted (100% cotton, 153yds/140m, 3oz/85g) Sunlit Seafoam 2 skeins (approx. 210 yards used)
- US I / 5.5 mm Crochet Hook
- Yarn Needle
- Scissors
- Stitch Markers
Gauge:
Work pattern rows 1 – 14, piece should measure 3.25” wide across stitches x 3.25” long across rows.
Finished Size:
10.5” wide x 11.5” tall (including handles)
Abbreviation Key:
(ch) chain
(st) stitch
(sl st) slip stitch
(sc) single crochet
(hdc) half double crochet
(dc) double crochet
* * Repeat instructions between asterisks as any times as directed
Pattern Notes:
Beginning chain of each round does not count as a stitch.
I tend to crochet tightly. So be sure to check your gauge and if you are crocheting more loosely you can move to a smaller hook (or larger if you crochet even more tightly). Some people find they even need to go down two hook sizes to meet my gauge.
For the construction of the handles there is a lot of back and forth/ turning. It is super easy for your stitch count to end up being a little off. Just keep in mind that the main goal is that 1) the handles be centered at either short end of the bag and that 2) the dc stitches in the final round are centered at each “armpit” of the handles. These taller stitches are meant to round out the transition from the handles to the sides of the bag.
Pattern:
Ch 13.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. <12>
Row 2: Ch 1. Turn. Sc in each st across. <12>
Rows 3 – 32: Repeat Row 2.
Your rectangle should be approximately 7” long and 3.25” wide. Measurement does not need to be exact, but if it is significantly different, you can begin again with a smaller or larger hook.

You will now work around the rectangle to begin to form the sides of the bag.
Ch 1. Sc in 1 loop of each row end down the long side of the rectangle. Sc in each ch of the starting chain. Sc in 1 loop of each row end along the other long side. Sc in each stitch along the last side. Join with a sl st to the first sc. <88 (32 on each long side, 12 on each short side)>
Round 1: Ch 1. Sc in each st around. Do not join. Mark your last stitch. <88>
Rounds 2 – 27: You will begin to crochet in a continuous round, 1 sc in each stitch around, moving your stitch marker to the last st of each subsequent round. <88>
After round 27, your sides should measure approximately 6” tall.

1st Handle
Row 1: Sc in next st. Ch 15. Sc in each chain down the left side of the ch. Twist ch so that your stitches are now on the right and the ch 15 is on the left side. Sl st to the 2nd stitch to the right (where your stitch marker is). <14 sc, 1 sl st>
Row 2: Turn to work back up the row of sc you just completed. Sk the sl st and sc in each of next 13 sc up the handle. 3 sc in the last sc. Working down the other side of the handle, sc in each ch of the starting ch. Sc in the next sc on the body of the bag. Sl st to the next st. <31 sc, 1 sl st>
Row 3: Turn. Sk sl st. Sc in next 15 st. 2 sc in next. Sc in next 15 st. Sc into the next sc on the body of the bag. Sl st to the next st. <33 sc, 1 sl st>
Row 4: Turn. Sk sl st. Sc in next 16 st. 2 sc in next. Sc in next 16 st. Sc into the next sc on the body of the bag. Sl st to the next st. <35 sc, 1 sl st>
Row 5: Turn. Sk sl st. Sc in next 17 st. 2 sc in next. Sc in next 17 st. Sc into the next sc on the body of the bag. Sl st to the next st. <37 sc, 1 sl st>
Row 6: Turn. Sk sl st. Sc in next 18 st. 2 sc in next. Sc in next 18 st. Sc into the next sc on the body of the bag. Sl st to the next st. <39 sc, 1 sl st>
Row 7: Turn. Sk sl st. Sc in next 19 st. 2 sc in next. Sc in next 19 st. Sc into the next sc on the body of the bag. Sl st to the next st. <41 sc, 1 sl st>
Row 8: Turn. Sk sl st. Sc in next 20 st. 2 sc in next. Sc in next 20 st. Sc into the next sc on the body of the bag. Sl st to the next st. <43 sc, 1 sl st>
Row 9: Turn. Sk sl st. Sc in next 21 st. 2 sc in next. Sc in next 21 st. Sc into the next sc on the body of the bag. Sl st to the next st. <45 sc, 1 sl st>
Row 10: Turn. Sk sl st. Sc in next 22 st. 2 sc in next. Sc in next 22 st. Sc into the next sc on the body of the bag. Sc in each of next 35 st. <82 sc>

2nd Handle:
Repeat Rows 1 – 9 of previous handle instructions to create a second handle.
Row 10 of 2nd handle: Turn. Sk sl st. Sc in next 22 st. 2 sc in next. Sc in next 22 st. Sc into the next sc on the body of the bag. Mark this stitch with a stitch marker.
Finishing off: (Reminder, if your count for this round is off, see pattern notes.)
Sc in next 48 st. 2 sc in next. Sc in next 71 st. 2 sc in next. Sc in next 17 st. (There should be 5 stitches remaining before the stitch marker.) Move the stitch marker to your current stitch.
*Hdc in next 2 st. Dc in next 6. Hdc in next 2. Sc in next 16. Hdc in next 2 st. Dc in next 6. Hdc in next 2. Sc in next 19. 2 sc in next st (end of handle).* Sc in next 17. Repeat from * to *. Sc in next 16. On last sc in the st with st marker. Sl to the hdc. <148 st around>
Finish off and weave in ends.

Note: Feel free to sell finished products made with this pattern. If finished products are posted online, please include a reference/credit to this pattern. Do not distribute or claim the pattern as your own, or alter and use my photos to market your finished products. Do not use this pattern to create video tutorials.