This braided beanie crochet pattern uses the Jacob’s Ladder technique to create the look of “braids” or cables running horizontally around the hat. It is a simple technique that creates lot of design interest.
The braids are initially created in a vertical position by crocheting one long rectangle with the braids running up and down. When complete, the rectangle is turned on it’s side and the short ends sewn together to create the tube of the hat.
The Origin of this Pattern
I really like a good horizontal line on a hat pattern, similar to my Peek-A-Boo Beanie, or the very popular Macy Beanie. I’m a sucker for stripes! However, I feel like the half double crochet in the back loop design is a little overdone at this point.
So, I was hoping to create something with that horizontal definition, but also something unique. After perusing my handy dandy crochet stitch book, I landed on the Jacob’s Ladder stitch, alternating with front loop single crochet for a nice contrast.
How to get the PDF version of this pattern for free!
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The Yarn For This Pattern
This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive compensation (at no additional cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links.
I chose to use Lion Brand Feels Like Butta yarn for this pattern for two reasons. One, it creates really nice stitch definition. I knew that I wanted the vertical lines in the design between the braids to really stand out. And two, despite having good definition, it’s still super soft! It’s almost like a toned down, thinner velvet yarn. Soft and sleek!
I’m really happy with the choice, as it shows off the lines, just like I’d hoped!
If you would like to purchase an inexpensive, ad-free printable pdf version of this braided beanie crochet pattern, you can find it here at my Etsy shop.
Add this braided beanie crochet pattern to your Ravelry favorites HERE.
- Size 4 Yarn, 218 yards (I used 1 skein of Lion Brand Feels Like Butta)
- USJ / 6.0 mm Crochet Hook
- 3 Buttons for embellishment, if desired
- Yarn Needle
The easiest way to measure gauge is to complete 5 rows of the pattern. At this point, my work was about 6 ½” wide (for fitted) or 7 ½” wide (for slouchy) and 1 ¼” tall. If your gauge is terribly different than this, you may want to start over with a smaller or larger hook.
However, this pattern is easy to size for yourself. The width of the first few rows will end up being the height of the hat. The brim added at the end will add about 1 ½” to the final height (if your gauge is close to mine; figure larger or smaller if your gauge is larger or smaller). If you are happy with the height your current measurements will create and are also happy with the tension of the stitches, then keep going, even if gauge is not exact. You can tailor the circumference of the hat simply by adding or removing rows before moving on to the brim.
fitted version: 8” tall
slouchy version: 9” tall
(sl st) slip stitch
(fsc) foundation single crochet
(sc) single crochet
(FLsc) front loop single crochet
(BLsc) back loop single crochet
Beginning chain of each row does not count as a stitch.
I tend to crochet tightly. Some people find they even need to go down two hook sizes to meet my gauge. See gauge notes above for checking gauge.
I will include instructions for two types of fits: traditional fitted and slouchy. The stitch counts for each style will be included in each step in parenthesis. Traditional will be the first number in parenthesis, and the slouchy will be the second number [ ie (27, 34)]. When the number is the same for both fits, only one number will be listed.
Note about sizing: This sizing is for a small adult hat. If you would like a larger or smaller hat, you can add or remove stitches in Row 1 (multiple of 8, plus 3 for traditional fit) to adjust the final height of the hat and add or remove repeats of rows 2-3 to adjust the final width of the hat.
Main Body of Hat:
Row 1: Fsc (27, 34).
Note: If you prefer to not use a foundation stitch, you can use a starting chain of (28, 35) and sc in the 2nd chain from the hook and in each chain across. However, this may result in a more visible seam when joining.
Row 2: Ch 1. Turn. Sc in the same stitch. FLsc in each of the next (8, 15) stitches. Sl st into the next stitch. Ch 8. Sl st into the same stitch. *FLsc in each of the next 7 stitches. Sl st into the next stitch. Ch 8. Sl st into the same stitch.* Repeat from * to * 1 more time. Sc in the last stitch of the row. (27, 34).
Note: Try not to make your chain 8s too tight. These will be used later to interlock with each other around the hat. If they are too tight, they might cinch tightly on the hat when connected together. If you find it too difficult to loosen your chains, you could also increase the # of chains for each repeat instead.
Row 3: Ch 1. Turn. Sc in the same stitch. Skip the ch 8. While pushing the ch 8 towards the back of your work, FLsc into the first sl st of the ch 8 (so the stitch at the bottom of the ch 8 that is on the left side of the ch 8, SEE PHOTOS). FLsc in each of the next 7 stitches. Skip the ch 8. While pushing the ch 8 towards the back of you work, FLsc in the first sl st of the ch 8. FLsc in each of the next 7 stitches. Skip the ch 8. While pushing the ch 8 toward the back of your work, FLsc in the first sl st of the ch 8. FLsc in each of the next (8, 15) stitches. Sc in the last stitch of the row. (27, 34)
Rows 4 – 79: Repeat rows 2 and 3, until your work is 18” from foundation row to final row, about 79 rows.
Note: This sizing is for a small adult hat. For a larger or smaller hat you can add or remove rows here.
Finish off and leave a long tail. This will be used to stitch the ends together.
Braiding the Chain 8’s:
This is a good spot to pause and braid your chain 8 stitches (though you can put that off til later if you prefer.
For each row of chain 8s, start with the first chain 8 of the row. Using your fingers, or a crochet hook, pull the next chain 8 (the one to the left), through the loop of the first chain 8. With the second ch 8 still on your hook, pull the next ch 8 through. Continue around the hat. The last ch 8 of each row will remain loose and wrap around a button later on.
Sewing the hat seam
Place the right sides of your work together (chains of 8 should be sticking out of the right side, the sides that are together). Use a yarn needle and your long tail to whip stitch the two ends together. However, only insert your yarn needle into the front loop of the side closest to you, and both the front and back loop of the side further from you. This will force the loop towards the right side of the edge closest to you forward to create a line on the right side of the hat that will mimic the lines created by the FLsc throughout the pattern.
Weave in your ends. Turn work right side out.
Attach a button where the ends of the row meet and wrap the last ch 8 around the button.
Attach your yarn into the end of any row at the bottom of the hat. The bottom of the hat will be the side that has only one sc after the ch 8. The top is where you have either 9 or 16 sc at the edge.
Row 1: Ch 7. Sc in the second chain from the hook and in each of the next 5 chains. (6) Sl st into the end of the next row of your hat. Sl st into the end of the next row. Ch 1. Turn your work so that you can work back up the 6 scs.
Row 2: BLsc in each of the next 5 stitches. Sc in the last stitch. (6, not counting the slip stitches)
Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in the same stitch. BLsc in each of the next 5 stitches. (6) Sl st into the end of the next row. Sl st into the end of the next row. Ch 1. Turn your work so you can work back up the 6 sc.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you come back around to the first row. Your number of band rows should match the number of rows you completed for the hat body. Finish off and leave a long tail. Use the tail and a yarn needle to whip stitch the two ends of the band together (on the inside to hide the seam).
Close up the top of the hat:
Use a long piece of yarn and a yarn needle to weave the yarn in and out around the top stitches of the hat. Pull the yarn to cinch the hat shut. Tie off securely and weave in ends.
Note: Feel free to sell finished products made with this pattern. If finished products are posted online, please include a reference/credit to this pattern, including a link. Do not distribute or claim the pattern as your own, or alter and use my photos to market your finished products.
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