This chunky crochet beanie has a fun and unique texture! It looks great in a solid color yarn and is especially soft when using the suggested yarn – Red Heart Hygge.
The Origin of This Pattern
My original inspiration for this pattern came from seeing a chunky knit beanie from Abercrombie and Fitch that I liked. I wanted to see if I could recreate the diamond-like bobbles that were featured in the chunky design.
I played around for a bit and eventually landed on an alternating repeat of shells and decrease stitches to create a diamond shape. The use of the front post crochet stitch also helps each diamond bobble to “pop” out a little.
I am super happy with the unique texture the stitch design created and how well it stands out with this yarn!
The Yarn For This Pattern
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I originally started this chunky crochet beanie pattern with a different yarn. As I was working on it, I had also started working on my Valentine’s Hygge pattern.
In the Valentine Hygge pattern I was using Red Heart Hygge for the first time, on every other row. I ended up loving the Red Heart Hygge so much that I decided to remake the Daphne Beanie design with it as well.
I really like how soft and sleek the yarn is. It makes a very comfortable hat! I also like that it has just enough of a “fuzz” to it to look a little furry, but it does not completely hide your stitches. You can still see your stitch pattern well.
If you would like to purchase an inexpensive, ad-free pdf version of this chunky crochet beanie pattern, you can find it here at my Etsy shop. (scroll down for the full free pattern)
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4” x 4” square = 11 hdss x 11 rows
brim/ band: 19”-20” circumference
height: 11.5”-12” (without pom pom and brim unfolded)
This pattern at this gauge will create a size small adult hat. If you would like to resize the hat, see notes on page 3, at the end of the band directions.
Stitches & Abbreviations Used:
(yo) yarn over
(sl st) slip stitch
(sc) single crochet
(hdss) half double slip stitch
(dc) double crochet
(dc3tog) double crochet three together
(fpdc) front post double crochet
I tend to crochet tightly. So be sure to check your gauge and if you are crocheting more loosely you can move to a smaller hook (or larger if you crochet even more tightly). Some people find they even need to go down two hook sizes to meet my gauge. The best time to check gauge would be after approximately 4” of the brim has been completed.
The chain at the beginning of each row or round does not count as a stitch.
In round 3 of the hat, you will use two advanced skills simultaneously: the front post double crochet (fpdc) and double crochet 3 together (dc3tog). Make sure you understand each concept separately before attempting them together.
In the body portion of this hat, each round will end with the same alternating stitch that the round began with. For example, if it started with a cluster of 3dc in the same stitch, it will end with a cluster of 3 dc. This might bother some people who would prefer to not have two of the same clusters next to each other, when the rest of the round alternates. I chose to leave the directions this way in order to achieve the sizing I wanted. However, if you would prefer to have the round end on the alternating cluster, you can simply add or subtract 3 rows from your band. This will add or subtract 3 stitches from your stitch count on your rounds and add or subtract one “cluster” from your count.
If you would like to re-size the pattern, you can adjust the number of rows in the band to the size you want, as long as the number of rows is a number divisible by 3. If you would like to be sure that each round ends with a different cluster than it begins with (as noted in the previous paragraph), then you will want a number divisible by 6.
Band/ Brim construction:
Chain 17, or until your chain is about 6 inches long.
Note: The band is wider than a typical band so that it can be folded up.
Row 1: Hdss in the 3rd chain from the hook and in each chain across. (15) Length of row ends up being about 5 ½” across.
How to Crochet the Half Double Slip Stitch
Yo. Insert hook into desired chain or stitch. Yo. Pull yarn through the chain/stitch and then also through the 2 loops on your hook.
Row 2: Ch 2. Turn. Hdss in the same stitch and in each stitch across. (15).
Row 3-57: Repeat row 2, until your band is about 19 inches long.
Note about gauge and sizing: At this point my band was about 5.5” across the row and 19” from foundation chain to the last row. If your sizing is very different from that, you can start again with a larger or smaller hook.
If you are at correct gauge, but just want a larger or smaller band in order to make a smaller or larger hat, then adjust the number of rows to the size you want, making sure the final # of rows is divisible by 3. If you want to make sure to end on a different stitch cluster than you start with at the beginning of the row (so that you don’t have two of the same in a row, see pattern notes), then you will want to use a number of rows divisible by 6.
Sc the two ends of the band together. (your seam will be showing on the outside of the hat, but that is because later we will fold it up and it will be hidden)
Body of the hat:
Round 1: Ch 1. Place a sc in the end of each row around the band. (57). Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round.
Round 2: Ch 2. In the same stitch and the next two stitches, dc3tog. *Sk the next stitch. Place 3 dc in the next stitch. Sk the next stitch. In the next 3 stitches, dc3tog*. Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the ch 2 at the beginning of the round. (19 stitch clusters)
How to Double Crochet 3 Together (dc3tog)
Yo. Insert hook into desired stitch. Yo. Pull through stitch. Yo. Pull through 2 loops on your hook. You will have two loops remaining on your hook. Yo. Insert hook into the next stitch. Yo. Pull through stitch. Yo. Pull through 2 loops on your hook. You will have 3 loops remaining on your hook. Yo. Insert hook into the next stitch. Yo. Pull through stitch. Yo. Pull through 2 loops on your hook. You will have 4 loops remaining on your hook. Yo and pull through all 4 loops on your hook.
Round 3: Ch 2. In the top of the dc3tog, place 3 dc. *In the next 3 stitches, dc3tog, using the fpdc stitch for each. Place 3 dc in the top of the next dc3tog.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round (19 stitch clusters).
Note: in rounds 3 and 4, be sure you are using the fpdc for the dc3tog stitches. If this is not done, your hat will not be as textured.
Round 4: Ch 2. In the next 3 stitches, dc3tog, using the fpdc stitch for each. *Place 3 dc in the top of the next dc3tog. In the next 3 stitches, dc3tog, using the fpdc stitch for each. Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the ch 2 at the beginning of the round. (19 stitch clusters)
Rounds 5-9: Repeat Rounds 3-4. You may add or remove rows here according to your height preference.
Finish off and leave a long tail. Using a yarn needle, weave the tail in and out around the top of the hat and cinch shut. Tie off and weave in ends. Fold up the brim. Add a pom pom if desired.
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Note: Feel free to sell finished products made with this pattern. If finished products are posted online, please include a reference/credit to this pattern. Do not distribute or claim the pattern as your own, or alter and use my photos to market your finished products.