This triangle scarf pattern is constructed so that the two corner tassels can interconnect and keep the ends from slipping off your shoulders! No more tassels slipping and sliding out of place!
The majority of the scarf is constructed using the c2c stitch, so if you enjoy that stitch or have been wanting to learn, this is a great pattern for you!
The Origin of This Pattern
I really love a good triangle scarf. They are stylish and cozy and have those wonderful tassels! However, when I wear them I find that the two corners that I wrap around my neck tend to slip and slide their way over my shoulders and to my back. I find myself constantly fussing over it and it drives me crazy!
One solution I considered was to create a bandana scarf. For a bandana scarf the top two corners are connected behind the neck. But I was sad about losing the two tassels. I think I mentioned I love tassels!
So, then I began scheming up a way to keep my tassels, but still connect my corners if I wanted. I ended up designing the triangle scarf pattern in a way that there would be a chain space created at the top two corners that would leave space for the tassel from the other corner to slip through. This would hold the two ends secure.
The corners are still long enough to be worn in the traditional fashion if desired. The tassels can be connected in the front, on top of the scarf where they are seen, or they can be hidden under the scarf.
The Yarn For This Pattern
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I dove into my yarn stash for this one and pulled out some Premier Deborah Norville Everyday that I had stocked up during a sale. I chose this yarn for two reasons, one being that it is just one of my favorites for it’s comfort and squish. It is soooo soft!
And two, I don’t really love how a lot of self-striping yarn works up in a lot of projects, but sometimes if the changes are just right, it looks GREAT as a c2c! It turned out just as I hoped for this project.
If you would like to purchase an inexpensive, ad-free pdf version of this triangle scarf pattern, you can find it here at my Etsy shop. (scroll down for the full free pattern)
Add this triangle scarf pattern to your Ravelry favorites HERE.
Size 4 yarn, 540 yards (I used 3 skeins, 180 yards each, of Premier Deborah Norville Everyday Yarn in Lilac Ridge, including chunky tassels)
US K/ 6.5 mm Crochet Hook
Each c2c cluster is roughly 1” wide and 3/4” tall.
After 6 rows, my project was 4” tall (from the bottom corner to the center of the top edge), and 6 1/2” along the top edge.
54” across the top, not including chains and tassels.
(sl st) slip stitch
(sc) single crochet
(dc) double crochet
Text on photos are just repeats of text in the pattern.
Photos in the pattern may not show the same color yarn as the finished project photos.
I tend to crochet tightly. So be sure to check your gauge and if you are crocheting more loosely you can move to a smaller hook (or larger if you crochet even more tightly). Some people find they even need to go down two hook sizes to meet my gauge.
The construction of the chains and tassels at the upper two corners of the scarf is so that when you are wearing the scarf, if you want it to hold more securely (ie – for the corners to not fall off your shoulders), you can put one of the tassels through the chain space on the opposite corner. This can be done either under or over the body of the scarf. If you are not interested in having this feature on your scarf, you can end the pattern at the end of row 48.
Row 1: Ch 6. Dc in 4th chain from the hook. Dc in each of the next two chains. This is one c2c Cluster.
Row 2: Ch 6. Turn. Dc in the 4th chain from the hook. Dc in each of the next two chains. Sl st into the beginning chain space of the first c2c Cluster. This is the first c2c cluster of the second row.
Ch 3. Place 3 dc in the same chain space. This completes row 2. (2 c2c clusters)
Row 3: Ch 6. Turn. Dc in the 4th chain from the hook. Dc in each of the next two chains. Sl st into the ch 3 space from the previous c2c Cluster of the last row. This is the first c2c cluster of the third row.
Ch 3. Place 3 dc in the same chain space.
Sl st into the ch 3 space of the next c2c Cluster of the last row. Ch 3. Place 3 dc in the same chain space. This completes Row 3. (3 c2c clusters)
So far you can see that we are creating each c2c Cluster in two different ways. The first clusters of an increasing row are created by chaining 6, and then placing a dc in each of the 3 chains furthest from the hook. The inner c2c Clusters are created by slip stitching to the next c2c cluster chain space, chaining 3 and then placing 3 more double crochet into the same chain space. We continue with this repeat until we reach the width that we want for our square.
Rows 4-43: For this pattern, we will continue this repeat for a total of 43 rows. At my gauge the width from corner to corner at the 43rd row is 51”. The height from the bottom corner, straight up to the top center is 23 ½”.
Note: It might be helpful to mark the top corners of row 43 with stitch markers, as you will need to locate these later to stitch into.
At the end of row 43, do not complete the last cluster. Turn. Place one sl st in each of the 3 stitches of the last cluster that was just completed.
Row 44: *Place 3 dc in the bottom of the ‘v’ between clusters. Sl st to the top corner of the next cluster.* Repeat from * to * across. At the end of the row you will put your last sl st into the chain 3 of the first cluster from the previous row. (41 clusters)
Note: You will notice that we have just used row 44 to make the top edge of our scarf straight. As you move into row 45, we will make it uneven again. This might seem confusing. The reason we are doing this is to transition from creating a triangle that increases with each new row, to creating rows that look similar, but no longer increase. We are moving from the c2c stitch (which works from corner to corner – hence the name) to the brick stitch, which is essentially the c2c stitch, but constructed from side to side. The sole purpose of this change for the last few rows is to stop increasing the width of our scarf, while adding height and room for our unique tasseled corners.
Row 45: Ch 4. Turn. 3 dc into the first chain. Sl st to the dc on the far side of the shell stitch. *Ch 3. 3 dc in the same stitch. Sl st to the dc on the far side of the next shell stitch*. Repeat from * to * across. The last sl st goes into the last dc of the row. (42 clusters)
Row 46: Chain 4. Turn. 3dc in first chain. Sl st to top of chain space of the next cluster. *Ch 3. 3 dc in same chain sp. Sl st to next chain space*. Repeat from * to * across. (42 clusters)
Rows 47-48: Repeat row 45.
Row 49: Ch 3. Turn. 3 dc at base of ch 3. Sl st to ch sp at top of first cluster. *3dc at base of ‘v’. Sl st to ch sp at top of next cluster.* Repeat from * to * across. (42 clusters)
Ch 20. Sl st to the bottom of the flat edge of the shawl (top of row 43). Sc back across the chain. Sc across the top of the last row. Ch 20. Sl st to the bottom of the flat edge of that side (top of row 43). Sc back up the chain. Sl st to the next stitch. Finish off and weave in ends.
Make 3 chunky tassels. Attach 1 to the bottom corner. Attach the other two to the center of the two corner chains.
If you have never made tassels before, here is a tutorial.
For my chunky tassels in the photo I used a 5 inch cardboard and wrapped my yarn 75 times for each tassel.
Note: Feel free to sell finished products made with this pattern. If finished products are posted online, please include a reference/credit to this pattern, including a link. Do not distribute or claim the pattern as your own, or alter and use my photos to market your finished products.