This crochet leg warmers pattern is easy to customize so that they fit you just right! They are a little narrower at the ankle, so they sit right above your foot, and then wider at the calf. The perfect solution for when you need just a little extra warmth.
The spiked single crochet stitch gives these leg warmers a beautiful texture. They are cozy and warm without being too stiff. A perfect stitch for colorful yarn, but also very showy with a solid color too!
The Origin of This Pattern
This is one of those patterns that I purchased the yarn for before I had the idea and thought and thought about what would work well with it! I ultimately landed on a crochet leg warmer pattern because I thought the long, tall structure would be perfect for showing off that beautiful ombre fade!!
Then I needed to pick a stitch to use! I wanted something simple and clean, but not like something I’d seen on other leg warmers. Ultimately, I landed on a spiked single crochet. It is similar to the moss, or linen, stitch, but with a little more length.
The Yarn For This Pattern
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I love a good color fade and this yarn does it perfectly! As I mentioned above, I fashioned this project around the yarn because I thought it was so pretty! I’m very pleased with how the design shows off the subtle color changes!
I also really enjoyed how soft and sleek the Lion Brand Mandala Ombre yarn is! So nice to work with, as well as very comfy to wear!
If you would like to purchase an inexpensive, ad-free pdf version of this crochet leg warmers pattern, you can find it here at my Etsy shop. (scroll down for the full free pattern)
Add this crochet leg warmers pattern to your Ravelry favorites HERE.
- 410 Yards Size 4 Yarn (I used Lion Brand Mandala Ombre in Cool)
- US I/ 5.5 mm Crochet Hook
- US J/ 6 mm Crochet Hook
- Yarn Needle
Check gauge at the end of the lower band construction. Band should be 2 ½“ wide x 11“ long
13 ¼ “ tall x 6 ½ “ wide (at widest part)
This pattern is one size, but instructions for customizing the fit are in the pattern notes.
Stitches & Abbreviations Used:
(sl st) slip stitch
(sc) single crochet
(blo sc) back loop only single crochet
(spsc) spiked single crochet
Spiked Single Crochet
A spiked single crochet (or single crochet spike stitch, or long single crochet) is worked in the same way as a normal single crochet stitch, except that instead of inserting your hook in the next stitch, you insert your hook a row (or more depending on the pattern) below the next stitch. Photos are included in the pattern.
Beginning chain of each round does not count as a stitch unless specifically noted.
I tend to crochet tightly. So be sure to check your gauge and if you are crocheting more loosely you can move to a smaller hook (or larger if you crochet even more tightly). Some people find they even need to go down two hook sizes to meet my gauge.
To customize the Fit:
The top band of the leg warmer is meant to hug the calf snuggly enough to not fall down. The pattern instructions create a top band of 12 inches (circumference, 6” across when measured laid flat). This fits a calf of 14 inches. To adjust for a different size, measure the widest part of the calf where the warmer will sit. The band should be 2 inches smaller than the calf measurement.
The lower (ankle) band should be roughly 1 inch smaller than the top band. So, whatever your top band measurement is, subtract 1 inch for the lower band.
The height of the leg warmer is meant to have a ‘slouchy’ fit. It is worn with the bottom band resting just above the floor at the heel/ankle and the top band hugging the calf (a few inches below the knee). The pattern fits a height of 12 inches from the floor to the widest part of the calf (where the top band will sit a few inches below the knee). The height of the warmer before adding the final band should be approximately 11 inches. This is 1 inch less than the height of floor to calf (remember, you haven’t added the band yet). To adjust your leg warmer, measure your calf to floor height. When you get to the last step before adding the band (round 51) add or remove rounds at that point to get a measurement of 1 inch less than your floor to calf measurement. Then continue with the pattern instructions to add the final band.
(Start out with the I hook) Chain 11.
Row 1 of the lower band: Sc in the second chain from the hook and in each chain across. (10)
Row 2: Ch 1. Turn. Sc in the same stitch. Blo sc in each of the next 8 stitches. Sc in the last stitch. (10)
Rows 3 – 46: Repeat Row 2.
This is a good point to check your gauge. At this point my band was approximately 11 inches long and 2 1/2” wide. If your gauge is very different from mine, you can start over with a smaller or larger hook. Once you know your gauge is correct, feel free to adjust the number of rows according to your personal measurements (see pattern notes).
If you adjust the number of rows, be sure you end up with an even number of rows at this step. You can wrap the band around your ankle (after the next step of crocheting the ends together) to get a good idea of whether you like the fit. Keep in mind that whatever the circumference of this band is, the top band will turn out about 1 inch wider.
Sc the two narrow ends of the band together. Turn inside out to hide the seam.
Round 1 of the main body of the warmers: (switch to larger J hook) Ch 1. Sc in the end of each row around the band (46). Join to the first sc with a sl st.
Round 2: Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch. Ch 1. Sk the next stitch. *Sc in the next stitch. Ch 1. Skip the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Join to the first sc with a sl st. (46)
Round 3: Ch 2 (counts as beginning chain and a chain space). Skip the first stitch. Spsc below the chain space. *Ch 1. Skip the next stitch. Spsc below the chain space.* Repeat from * to * around. (46). Join with a sl st to the chain space at the start of the round. (See photos)
Round 4: Ch 1. Spsc beneath the chain space directly below. Ch 1. Skip the next stitch. *Spsc beneath the chain space. Ch 1. Skip the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. (46). Join with a sl st to the first spsc.
Rounds 5 – 10: Repeat rounds 3 and 4. (46)
Round 11: Repeat round 3, up to stitch 23 (which should be a chain). After completing the chain, instead of skipping a stitch place an additional spsc in the same stitch as the last spsc (to create an increase of 2 stitches in this round). Chain 1 and continue the repeat around. (48). Join with a sl st to the chain space at the start of the the round.
Round 12: Repeat round 4, up to stitch 28 (which should be a chain). After completing the chain, instead of skipping a stitch place an additional spsc in the same stitch as the last spsc (to create an increase of 2 stitches in this round). Chain 1 and continue the repeat around. (50). Join with a sl st to the first spsc.
Rounds 13 – 20: Repeat Rounds 3 and 4. (50)
Round 21: Repeat Round 11, but add the increase stitch after stitch 25. (52)
Round 22: Repeat Round 12, but add the increase stitch after stitch 30. (54)
Round 23 – 50: Repeat Rounds 3 & 4. (54)
You can customize the height of your leg warmer by adding or removing rounds here. At this point my leg warmer was 11 inches tall. See pattern notes for customizing your fit.
Round 51: (Switch back to I hook) Ch 1. Sc in each stitch around (54). Join with a sl st to the first sc.
Row 1 of top band: Ch 11. Sc in the second ch from the hook and in each chain. (10) Sl st to the next stitch of the leg warmer. Sl st into the next stitch as well.
Row 2: Ch 1. Turn. Skip the 2 slip stitches and sc in the first st of Row 1. Blo sc in each of the next 8 stitches. Sc in the last st. (10).
Row 3: Ch 1. Turn. Sc in the same stitch. Blo sc in each of the next 9 stitches. (10). Sl st to the next stitch of the leg warmer. Sl st into the next stitch as well.
Row 4: Ch 1. Turn. Sc in the first st. Blo sc in each of the next 8 stitches. Sc in the last st. (10)
Rows 5 – 54: Repeat Rows 3 and 4. When you complete row 54, finish off and leave a long tail. Use the tail and a yarn needle to whip stitch the two ends of the top band together.
Weave in your ends.
Repeat all instructions for a second leg warmer.
Note: Feel free to sell finished products made with this pattern. If finished products are posted online, please include a reference/credit to this pattern. Do not distribute or claim the pattern as your own, or alter and use my photos to market your finished products.
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