This roomy crochet market bag pattern is packed full of femininity! The bean stitch is used to make a repeating flower pattern around the sides that creates a soft and delicate design. The filet crochet between the “flowers” creates a breathable and airy fabric.
With a 12″ wide base and 18″ inch mid-section, this bag has lots of space! While the base is quite compact, the sides have a fair amount of drape and stretch. Due to the stretch, this bag would not be ideal for a heavy load of canned goods, but it’s just right for some yarn projects, a yoga mat and change of clothes, or a few items from the market.
The Origin of This Pattern
I first came up with this stitch pattern with a wearable piece in mind. And though I still plan on publishing that original idea, it takes a lot longer to size a garment than an accessory, so that pattern is still in the works! I was impatient to go ahead and use the design, so I decided to also use it in this crochet market bag pattern!
I love this design because it looks the same whether done in the round or back and forth in rows. it is very versatile.
I also just love the bean stitch and have been incorporating it in a lot of my patterns in the last year. If you love it too, here is a round up of some other beautiful patterns that use the bean stitch.
The Yarn For This Pattern
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I used Loops & Threads Cotton Colors in “Dunes” for this pattern. Unfortunately, it appears this yarn only made a short appearance at Michael’s stores and now they no longer carry it! I hate when that happens!
On the other hand, it was a 100% cotton, size 4 (worsted weight) yarn, so there are quite a few other yarns out there that fit that description. Almost any size 4 cotton yarn should be great for this bag. Probably one of the closest matches would be I Love This Cotton from Hobby Lobby.
THE PATTERN
If you would like to purchase an inexpensive, ad-free pdf version of this crochet market bag pattern, you can find it here at my Etsy shop. (to view the free version, simply keep scrolling down on this page)
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Materials:
- 548 Yards/ 500 Meters Size 4/ Worsted Weight Yarn (I used 1 2/3 skeins of Loops & Threads Cotton Colors in “Dunes”)
- US J/ 6.0 mm Crochet Hook
- Yarn Needle
- Scissors
Gauge:
The best place to measure gauge is after Round 8 of the base.
After Round 8, my base was roughly 4” (4.16 cm) across at the widest point.
Sizing:
The base of the bag is about 12” (30.48 cm) across at the widest point.
Wide across the widest part of the sides when laid flat is 18” (45.72 cm).
The height of the bag is 13.5” (34.29 cm) (not including straps) and 19.5” (49.53 cm) (including strap).
Stitches, Abbreviations & Techniques Used:
(ch) chain
(sl st) slip stitch
(sc) single crochet
(dc) double crochet
(st) stitch
(sk) skip
(ch sp) chain space
Special stitch: Bean Stitch
Technique: Crocheting in the back loop only
Pattern Notes:
Beginning chain of rounds 1 – 25 and 48 – 52 does not count as a stitch. Beginning chain of round 26 – 47 DOES count as a stitch.
I tend to crochet tightly. So be sure to check your gauge and if you are crocheting more loosely you can move to a smaller hook (or larger if you crochet even more tightly). Some people find they even need to go down two hook sizes to meet my gauge.
When the pattern calls for a bean stitch to be completed, this includes the final step of a ch 1 to finish it. When there is instruction to ch 1 immediately after the bean stitch, this is another chain in addition to the finishing chain of the bean stitch.
How to Crochet the Bean Stitch:
Insert hook. Yo and pull through the stitch. Yo. Insert hook in the same stitch. Yo and pull up a loop. You will have 4 loops on your hook. Yo. Insert hook in the same stitch. Yo and pull up a loop. You will have 6 loops on your hook. Yo and pull through all 6 loops on your hook. Chain 1 to finish off the stitch.
Pattern:
Round 1: Ch 2. 6 sc in the second chain from the hook (the first chain you made). Join to the first sc with a sl st (6)
Round 2: Ch 1. 2 sc in each stitch around. Join to the first sc with a sl st. (12)
Round 3: Ch 1. Sc in the same st. 2 sc in the next st. *Sc in the next st. 2 sc in the next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (18)
Round 4: Ch 1. Sc in the same st. Sc in the next st. 2 sc in the next st. *1 Sc in each of the next 2 stitches. 2 sc in the next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (24).
Round 5: Ch 1. Sc in the same st. 1 Sc in each of the next 2 stitches. 2 sc in the next st. *1 Sc in each of next 3 stitches. 2 sc in the next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (30).
Round 6: Ch 1. Sc in the same st. 1 Sc in each of the next 3 stitches. 2 sc in the next st. *1 Sc in each of the next 4 stitches. 2 sc in the next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (36).
Round 7: Ch 1. Sc in the same st. 1 Sc in each of the next 4 stitches. 2 sc in the next st. *1 Sc in each of the next 5 stitches. 2 sc in the next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (42).
Round 8: Ch 1. Sc in the same st. 1 Sc in each of the next 5 stitches. 2 sc in the next st. *1 Sc in each of the next 6 stitches. 2 sc in the next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (48).
Note: This is a good spot to check your gauge. At this point my base was roughly 4” (4.16 cm) across. If your gauge is significantly different than this, you may want to begin again with a larger or smaller hook.
Round 9: Ch 1. Sc in the same st. 1 Sc in each of the next 6 stitches. 2 sc in the next st. *1 Sc in each of the next 7 stitches. 2 sc in the next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (54).
Round 10: Ch 1. Sc in the same st. 1 Sc in each of the next 7 stitches. 2 sc in the next st. *1 Sc in each of the next 8 stitches. 2 sc in the next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (60).
Round 11: Ch 1. Sc in the same st. 1 Sc in each of the next 8 stitches. 2 sc in the next st. *1 Sc in each of the next 9 stitches. 2 sc in the next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (66).
Round 12: Ch 1. Sc in the same st. 1 Sc in each of the next 9 stitches. 2 sc in the next st. *1 Sc in each of the next 10 stitches. 2 sc in the next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (72).
Round 13: Ch 1. Sc in the same st. 1 Sc in each of the next 10 stitches. 2 sc in the next st. *1 Sc in each of the next 11 stitches. 2 sc in the next st*. Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (78).
Round 14: Ch 1. Sc in the same st. 1 Sc in each of the next 11 stitches. 2 sc in the next st. *1 Sc in each of the next 12 stitches. 2 sc in the next st. Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (84).
Round 15: Ch 1. Sc in the same st. 1 Sc in each of the next 12 stitches. 2 sc in the next st. *1 Sc in each of the next 13 stitches. 2 sc in the next st*. Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (90).
Round 16: Ch 1. Sc in the same st. 1 Sc in each of the next 13 stitches. 2 sc in the next st. *1 Sc in each of the next 14 stitches. 2 sc in the next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (96).
Round 17: Ch 1. Sc in the same st. 1 Sc in each of the next 14 stitches. 2 sc in the next st. *1 Sc in each of the next 15 stitches. 2 sc in the next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (102).
Round 18: Ch 1. Sc in the same st. 1 Sc in each of the next 15 stitches. 2 sc in the next st. *1 Sc in each of the next 16 stitches. 2 sc in the next st*. Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (108).
Round 19: Ch 1. Sc in the same st. 1 Sc in each of the next 16 stitches. 2 sc in the next st. *1 Sc in each of the next 17 stitches. 2 sc in the next st*. Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (114).
Round 20: Ch 1. Sc in the same st. 1 Sc in each of the next 17 stitches. 2 sc in the next st. *1 Sc in each of the next 18 stitches. 2 sc in the next st*. Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (120).
Round 21: Ch 1. Sc in the same st. 1 Sc in each of the next 18 stitches. 2 sc in the next st. *1 Sc in each of the next 19 stitches. 2 sc in the next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (126).
Round 22: Ch 1. Sc in the same st. 1 Sc in each of the next 19 stitches. 2 sc in the next st. *1 Sc in each of the next 20 stitches. 2 sc in the next st*. Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (132).
Round 23: Ch 1. Sc in the same st. 1 Sc in each of the next 20 stitches. 2 sc in the next st. *1 Sc in each of the next 21 stitches. 2 sc in the next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (138).
Round 24: Ch 1. Sc in the same st. 1 Sc in each of the next 21 stitches. 2 sc in the next st. *1 Sc in each of the next 22 stitches. 2 sc in the next st*. Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (144).
This completes the base of the bag. We will now begin to work up the sides.
Round 25: Ch 1. (crochet in the back loop only for this round) Sc in the same stitch and in each stitch around. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (144)
Round 26: Ch 3 (counts as a stitch and a ch sp) Sk the next st. 1 Dc in each of the next 2 stitches. Ch 1. Sk the next stitch. 1 Dc in each of the next 2 stitches. Ch 1. Sk the next stitch. Dc in the next stitch. Sk the next stitch. Place [bean stitch, ch 1, bean stitch] in the next stitch. Sk the next stitch. *Dc in the next stitch. Ch 1. Sk the next st. 1 Dc in each of the next 2 stitches. Ch 1. Sk the next stitch. 1 Dc in each of the next 2 stitches. Ch 1. Sk the next stitch. Dc in the next stitch. Sk the next stitch. Place [bean stitch, ch 1, bean stitch] in the next stitch. Sk the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the ch 3 at the beginning of the round with sl st. (144)
Note about joining to the ch 3 (this round and following): You can either join directly into the 2nd chain, or just sl st around the entire chain. Either method will work.
Round 27: Ch 3 (counts as a stitch and a ch sp). Sk the ch sp. 1 Dc in each of the next 2 dc. Ch 1. Sk the ch sp. 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc. Ch 1. Sk the ch sp. Dc in the next dc. Sk the bean stitch. Place [bean stitch, ch 1, bean stitch] in the ch sp between bean stitches. Skip the bean stitch. *Dc in next dc. Ch 1. Sk the ch sp. 1 Dc in each of the next 2 dc. Ch 1. Sk the ch sp. 1 Dc in each of the next 2 dc. Ch 1. Sk the ch sp. Dc in the dc. Sk the bean stitch. Place [bean stitch, ch 1, bean stitch] in the ch sp between bean stitches. Skip the bean stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Join to the ch 3 at the beginning of the round with a sl st. (144)
Rounds 28 – 47: Repeat Round 27.
Round 48: Ch 1. (does not count as a stitch). Place 2 sc in the same chain space that you joined to. Place 1 sc in each stitch around (including each chain space). For the bean stitch clusters this would mean one sc in the eye of the first bean stitch, a sc in the chain space between the bean stitches, and then a sc in the eye of the second bean stitch. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. (144).
Rounds 49 – 52: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch). Sc in the same stitch and each stitch around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. (144) Do not finish off.
Constructing the Straps:
Strap 1:
Chain 56. Skip the next 34 stitches and sl st into the 35th stitch. Crochet back up the chain by placing 1 sc in each chain. When you reach the end of the chain, sc in each of the 34 stitches that were skipped. This will take you back around to where you joined your chain to the bag again, creating one big circle. You should have 90 stitches.
When you get to the 34th skipped stitch, do not join to the first sc of the circle, but continue crocheting one sc into each stitch around the same circle again. (It might help to use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of the round as you go.) Continue to sc around the circle for a total of 3 rounds of sc.
After a total of 3 rounds for this strap, join to the first sc of the round with a sl st and finish off. (90)
Strap 2:
Go back to the final join of Round 52, where you started your first chain for Strap 1. Count backwards (to the right), 37 stitches. Join your yarn to that 37th stitch. Chain 56. Count back (to the right) another 35 stitches and join your chain with a sl st to that 35th stitch. You are essentially skipping another 34 stitches, just like your first strap. This time, instead of crocheting up the chain, you will begin by placing 1 sc in each of the 34 skipped stitches.
When you get to the chain, place 1 sc in each chain. When you get back to the first sc (another circle like strap 1), you should have 90 stitches. Do not join, but continue to sc around the circle 2 more times for a total of 3 rounds of sc. (again, it might help to use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of the round as you go.)
After a total of 3 rounds for this strap, join to the first sc of the round with a sl st and finish off. (90)
Crocheting between the two straps:
Join your yarn anywhere along the top of the bag between the two straps. Ch 1. Sc in the same st and in each st along the top of the bag until your reach a strap.
Crochet up the strap by placing one sc in each of the chains on the strap (this should be a total of 56 sc along the strap).
When you reach the end of the strap, continue crocheting along the top of the bag between the two straps on the opposite side. This section should be a total of 36 sc.
When you reach the second strap, so the same as the first and place one sc in each of the chains (56).
When you reach the end of the strap you will now be at the section of the top of the bag where you joined your yarn for the beginning of this round. Continue to place 1 sc in each stitch until you reach where you began the round. You should have 184 stitches. Do not join, but continue to crochet around in a circle by placing 1 sc in each stitch. You may want to mark the first stitch of the round with a stitch marker.
Continue to sc around the circle 2 more times, for a total of 3 sc rounds. At the end of the 3rd round, join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. (184)
Note: if you would like your straps to be thicker, you could continue to the rounds for each strap and the round between the two straps, for more than 3 rounds. Just be sure to add the same number of rounds for all 3 sections.
Finish off and weave in your ends!
Note: Feel free to sell finished products made with this pattern. If finished products are posted online, please include a reference/credit to this pattern. Do not distribute or claim the pattern as your own, or alter and use my photos to market your finished products.
More Crochet Patterns You Might Enjoy:
Cotton Cakes Knotted Strap Bag
I love this bag, looks very pretty!
Thank you Leyla! ❤️