Easy Crochet Bucket Hat | Free Crochet Pattern
This easy crochet bucket hat could not be more simple! The only stitches you need to know for this pattern are the single crochet and half double crochet! The sheer simplicity of this pattern will have you whipping up one, or more, in no time!
This pattern really shows off a beautiful variegated yarn, which also cuts out any yarn changes. Or, stick to a classic look and choose a beautiful solid or tonal color yarn.
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What yarn is best for a bucket hat?
A cotton or cotton blend yarn is going to be a good first choice for a bucket hat. Cotton is lightweight and breathable and also holds up well to washing.
Some other good lightweight choices are bamboo, lyocell and raffia.
For this particular easy crochet bucket hat pattern, I chose to use K + C Essential Cotton yarn (in color Beach) from Joann stores. I chose this one specifically because I fell in love with the colors, however, I was also looking for a cotton yarn and this one fit the bill for a comfortable feel as well. I would say it is comparable in weight and softness to Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton, another popular cotton pick.
Want to learn more about crocheting with cotton?
Bucket hats are super on trend right now. Here are a few other trends that you can make for yourself as well!
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The Pattern
If you would like to purchase an inexpensive, ad-free printable pdf version of this easy crochet bucket hat pattern, you can find it here at my Etsy shop.
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Materials:
- 146 Yards Size 3 Yarn (I used KC Cotton Essential Cotton in Beach)
- US I/ 5.5 mm Crochet Hook
- Yarn Needle
- Scissors
Gauge:
4” x 4” swatch of hdc = 11 rows x 14 hdc
Sizing:
8 ½” tall x 24” circumference at widest part of the crown (before the brim)
This is a one size fits most pattern. Instructions for resizing are not included.
Stitches Used:
(ch) chain
(sl st) slip stitch
(sc) single crochet
(hdc) half double crochet
crocheting in the back and 3rd loop
Pattern Notes:
Beginning chain of each round does not count as a stitch.
I tend to crochet tightly. So be sure to check your gauge and if you are crocheting more loosely you can move to a smaller hook (or larger if you crochet even more tightly). Some people find they even need to go down two hook sizes to meet my gauge.
Pattern:
Round 1: Ch 2. Place 8 hdc in the second chain from hook. Join with a sl st to the first hdc of the round. (8)
Round 2: Ch 1. Place 2 hdc in the same stitch and in each stitch around. Join with a sl st to the first hdc of the round. (16)
Round 3: Ch 1. Place 1 hdc in the same stitch. 2 hdc in the next. 1* hdc in the next stitch. 2 hdc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first hdc of the round. (24)
Round 4: Ch 1. Place 1 hdc in the same stitch. 1 hdc in the next stitch. 2 hdc in the next stitch. *1 hdc in each of the next 2 stitches. 2 hdc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first hdc of the round. (32)
Round 5: Ch 1. Place 1 hdc in the same stitch. 1 hdc in each of the next 2 stitches. 2 hdc in the next stitch. *1 hdc in each of the next 3 stitches. 2 hdc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first hdc of the round. (40)
Round 6: Ch 1. Place 1 hdc in the same stitch. 1 hdc in each of the next 3 stitches. 2 hdc in the next stitch. *1 hdc in each of the next 4 stitches. 2 hdc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first hdc of the round. (48)
Round 7: Ch 1. Place 1 hdc in the same stitch. 1 hdc in each of the next 4 stitches. 2 hdc in the next stitch. *1 hdc in each of the next 5 stitches. 2 hdc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first hdc of the round. (56)
Round 8: Ch 1. Place 1 hdc in the same stitch. 1 hdc in each of the next 5 stitches. 2 hdc in the next stitch. *1 hdc in each of the next 6 stitches. 2 hdc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first hdc of the round. (64)
Round 9: Ch 1. Place 1 hdc in the same stitch. 1 hdc in each of the next 6 stitches. 2 hdc in the next stitch. *1 hdc in each of the next 7 stitches. 2 hdc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first hdc of the round. (72)
Round 10: Ch 1. Place 1 hdc in the same stitch. 1 hdc in each of the next 7 stitches. 2 hdc in the next stitch. *1 hdc in each of the next 8 stitches. 2 hdc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first hdc of the round. (80)
Mark the last stitch of the round with a stitch marker.
Round 11: Ch 1. For all stitches in this row, insert your hook through the back loop and the 3rd loop only. Hdc in the same stitch and in each stitch around. (80) Don’t join.
You will work in a continuous round from here on out (no joining at the end of the round, but continuously stitching in a spiral). Mark the last stitch of each round with a stitch marker to keep track of your rounds.
Round 12: 1 Hdc in each stitch around. (80)
Rounds 13 – 19: Repeat Round 12. (80)
Round 20: *1 Hdc in each of the next 9 stitches. 2 hdc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. (88)
Round 21: 1 Hdc in each stitch around. (88)
Round 22: *1 Hdc in each of the next 10 stitches. 2 hdc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. (96)
Round 23: 1 Hdc in each stitch around. (96)
Round 24: *1 Hdc in each of the next 11 stitches. 2 hdc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. (104)
Round 25: 1 Hdc in each stitch around, except for the last stitch. In the last stitch, place 1 sc. (104)
Sl st into the next stitch. Finish off and weave in ends.
Note: Feel free to sell finished products made with this pattern. If finished products are posted online, please include a reference/credit to this pattern. Do not distribute or claim the pattern as your own, or alter and use my photos to market your finished products. Do not use this pattern to create video tutorials.
Have finished row 11. Do not understand not joining and stitching in a spiral. Help please. [email protected]
Hi Betty, it just means that instead of ending a round with a slip stitch to the first stitch of the round, you skip that part and put your next stitch directly into the first stitch of the round. This will eliminate the need to join as you finish up a round. You’ll just keep stitching around and around (in a “spiral”). But you will need to use a stitch marker to mark the last stitch of your round and keep moving it up as you pass it or you’ll lose track of where the end of your round should be. Does that make sense?
Thank you. That is what I did.