Rows of Picots Pretty Crochet Market Bag Pattern

If you love light and feminine crochet then this pretty crochet market bag pattern is just for you! Fittingly named the Rows of Picots Bag (because of the rows of picot stitching through the main part of the bag) this bag puts a subtle twist on traditional mesh!

Whether you use this bag for the farmer’s market, the beach or odds and ends, this bag will up your tote game! It would make a beautiful gift project as well!

You can never have too many bags!

Besides new yarn, there are a few other things I have a hard time passing up… baskets and bags! They are just so useful and practical to have around. No matter how many I have, I seem to always have a use for another one.

This bag starts with a solid base to give it some strength. Then the body of the bag is made with continuous rounds of the picot stitch. This part makes this a great mindless project to do while you’re watching your favorite television show!

The top is finished off with a few more rounds of single crochet and some lightweight handles.

The Yarn for this Pretty Crochet Market Bag Pattern

Usually I go for a worsted weight 100% yarn for market bags. However, because I was going for a more delicate look with this bag, I decided to try a size 3 yarn. I still wanted it to be 100% cotton.

Cotton is a great choice for bags, as it is durable, doesn’t stretch too much and performs well with repeated washing. If you want to know more about the characteristics of cotton yarn, check out my Ultimate Guide to Crocheting with Cotton.

I decided to try Premier Yarn’s Cotton Sprout Speckles. It is 100% cotton and a size 3 weight. It is super soft and I loved the warm ivory with just a few pops of of color throughout. The resulting feel after the project was complete was light, soft and bouncy.

Pattern

If  you would like to purchase an inexpensive, ad-free printable pdf version of this pretty crochet market bag pattern, you can find it here at my Etsy shop.

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Materials:

• Premier Cotton Sprout Speckles Weight 3 Light (100% cotton, 3oz/85g, 178m/194yds) Waves 2 skeins (approx. 343 yards used)
• US H/ 5.0 mm Crochet Hook
• Yarn Needle
• Stitch Marker
• Scissors

Gauge:

After Round 8, my circle was 4” across/diameter

Sizing:

Roughly 15” tall (not including handles) and 14” wide (when laid flat loosely)
Base is 10.5” wide

Abbreviations Used:

(ch) chain
(ch-sp) chain space
(st) stitch
(sl st) slip stitch
(sc) single crochet
(hdc) half double crochet
* * Repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as directed.

Pattern Notes:

I tend to crochet tightly. So be sure to check your gauge and if you are crocheting more loosely you can move to a smaller hook (or larger if you crochet even more tightly). Some people find they even need to go down two hook sizes to meet my gauge.

The technique used in this pattern where you [sc, ch 3, sl st to sc] is called a “picot.” Starting at Round 25 you will count “picots” rather than stitches.

Pattern:

Round 1: Ch 2. 6 sc in second ch from hook (first ch you made). Sl st to first sc. <6>

Round 2: Ch 1. 2 sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc. <12>

Round 3: Ch 1. Sc in same st. 2 sc in next st. *Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first sc. <18>

Round 4: Ch 1. Sc in same st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. *1 Sc in each of next 2 st. 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first sc. <24>

Round 5: Ch 1. Sc in same st. 1 Sc in each of next 2 st. 2 sc in next st. *1 Sc in each of next 3 st. 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first sc. <30>

Round 6: Ch 1. Sc in same st. 1 Sc in each of next 3 st. 2 sc in next st. *1 Sc in each of next 4 st. 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first sc. <36>

Round 7: Ch 1. Sc in same st. 1 Sc in each of next 4 st. 2 sc in next st. *1 Sc in each of next 5 st. 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first sc. <42>

Round 8: Ch 1. Sc in same st. 1 Sc in each of next 5 st. 2 sc in next st. *1 Sc in each of next 6 st. 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first sc. <48>

Note: This is a good spot to check your gauge. At this point my base was roughly 4” across. If your gauge is significantly different than this, you may want to begin again with a larger or smaller hook.

Round 9: Ch 1. Sc in same st. 1 Sc in each of next 6 st. 2 sc in next st. *1 Sc in each of next 7 st. 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first sc. <54>

Round 10: Ch 1. Sc in same st. 1 Sc in each of next 7 st. 2 sc in next st. *1 Sc in each of next 8 st. 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first sc. <60>

Round 11: Ch 1. Sc in same st. 1 Sc in each of next 8 st. 2 sc in next st. *1 Sc in each of next 9 st. 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first sc. <66>

Round 12: Ch 1. Sc in same st. 1 Sc in each of next 9 st. 2 sc in next st. *1 Sc in each of next 10 st. 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first sc. <72>

Round 13: Ch 1. Sc in same st. 1 Sc in each of next 10 st. 2 sc in next st. *1 Sc in each of next 11 st. 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first sc. <78>

Round 14: Ch 1. Sc in same st. 1 Sc in each of next 11 st. 2 sc in next st. *1 Sc in each of next 12 st. 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first sc. <84>

Round 15: Ch 1. Sc in same st. 1 Sc in each of next 12 st. 2 sc in next st. *1 Sc in each of next 13 st. 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first sc. <90>.

Round 16: Ch 1. Sc in same st. 1 Sc in each of next 13 st. 2 sc in next st. *1 Sc in each of next 14 st. 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first sc. <96>.

Round 17: Ch 1. Sc in same st. 1 Sc in each of next 14 st. 2 sc in next st. *1 Sc in each of next 15 st. 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first sc. <102>.

Round 18: Ch 1. Sc in same st. 1 Sc in each of next 15 st. 2 sc in next st. *1 Sc in each of next 16 st. 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first sc. <108>.

Round 19: Ch 1. Sc in same st. 1 Sc in each of next 16 st. 2 sc in next st. *1 Sc in each of next 17 st. 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first sc. <114>.

Round 20: Ch 1. Sc in same st. 1 Sc in each of next 17 st. 2 sc in next st. *1 Sc in each of next 18 st. 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first sc. <120>.

Round 21: Ch 1. Sc in same st. 1 Sc in each of next 18 st. 2 sc in next st. *1 Sc in each of next 19 st. 2 sc in next st. Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first sc. <126>.

Round 22: Ch 1. Sc in same st. 1 Sc in each of next 19 st. 2 sc in next st. *1 Sc in each of next 20 st. 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first sc. <132>.

Round 23: Ch 1. Sc in same st. 1 Sc in each of next 20 st. 2 sc in next st. *1 Sc in each of next 21 st. 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first sc. <138>.

Round 24: Ch 1. Sc in same st. 1 Sc in each of next 21 st. 2 sc in next st. *1 Sc in each of next 22 st. 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st to first sc. <144>.

Note: At this point, my base was roughly 10.5” across at the widest point.

Round 25: Ch 5. Skip same st and next 2 st. Sc in next st. Ch 3. Sl st into sc you just completed. (note: this creates what we will refer to as a “picot” in this pattern. We will use picots to count the stitches in a round). *Ch 5. Skip next 3 st. Sc in next. Ch 3. Sl st into sc you just completed.* Repeat from * to * around. <36 picots> Mark last picot st with a st marker.

From here on, you will no longer be joining the end of your rounds, but you will begin to crochet around in a spiral. Continue to keep a stitch marker on the final picot of each round so that you don’t lose your place.

Round 26: Ch 5. Skip first 2 chs of ch-5 at beginning of round. Sc in 3rd ch. Ch 3. Sl st into sc you just completed. *Ch 5. Skip next (2 chs, picot st, and next 2 chs). Sc into 3rd ch of ch-5. Ch 3. Sl st into sc you just completed.* Repeat from * to * around. <36 picots>

Round 27: *Ch 5. Skip next (2 chs, picot st, and following 2 chs). Sc into 3rd ch of ch-5. Ch 3. Sl st into sc you just completed.* Repeat from * to * around. <36, if you stop to count right before st marker>

Round 28 – 43: Repeat Round 27.

Round 44: *2 hdc in ch-sp. Sl st to picot st.* Repeat from * to * around. Last sl st will be placed in last picot of last round. <111, including final join sl st>

Round 45: Ch 1. *Sc2tog. Sc in next.* Repeat from * to * around. Final st will be placed in join of last round. Sl st to first sc2tog. <74>

Rounds 46 – 48: Ch 1. Sc around. Join with sl st to first sc. <74>

Round 49: Sc. Ch 60. Skip next 20. Sc in next 17. Ch 42. Skip next 20. Sc in next 16. <34 sc and 2 ch-60 sps for handles>

Note: If you would like your handles to be longer or shorter, you can adjust the ch-60 to the number you prefer. The length in my photos is actually a little shorter than the stitch instructions (42 stitches for reference).

Round 50: Sk join and begin to crochet in the round without joining. Sc in each sc and each ch around, do not join. <154>

Rounds 51 – 52: 1 sc in each st around. At end of last round, sl st to next st. <154>
Finish off and weave in ends.

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