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The Kayla Beanie

This textured crochet beanie pattern uses the lemon peel stitch to create a simple and attractive piece. It is a quick and easy pattern that works up beautifully in solid or variegated yarns. The half double crochet in the third loop makes a neat and clean band.

The Origin Of This Pattern

My original intent for this textured crochet beanie pattern was to use the fur yarn that you see on the pom-pom to also create a fur band. I thought this gorgeous variegated yarn would pair beautifully with the pure white fur yarn.

However, no matter how many times I worked up a band, I didn’t like it. And believe me, I pulled it out quite a few times! Finally, I just decided to keep it simple and finish up the band with a nice half double crochet in the third loop stitch!

I still used the pretty white fur yarn, but only for the pom-pom. I was happy with how it finally turned out, even if it wasn’t my original vision!

The Yarn For This Pattern

This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive compensation (at no additional cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links.

This hat was one of those patterns that started out with the yarn! I spotted this I Love This Yarn in Hobby Lobby and couldn’t pass it up. (The color name is “After Dinner Laughs.”) Sometimes I have a pattern in mind and go looking for the yarn that fits, and sometimes I just see some yarn that I love so much that I buy it and then dream up a pattern with it later!

Lately, I have had a little obsession with Hobby Lobby yarns, and especially I Love This Yarn. It has wonderful squish and is very soft and sleek. It is really fun to work with.

The Pattern

If you would like to purchase an inexpensive, ad-free pdf version of this textured crochet beanie pattern, you can find it here at my Etsy shop. (to view the free version, simply keep scrolling down on this page)

Add this textured crochet beanie pattern to your Ravelry favorites HERE.

Materials:

Size 4 Yarn (I used less than 1 skein of I Love This Yarn in After Dinner Laughs, 252 yds)
US J/ 6.0 mm Crochet Hook
Yarn Needle
Scissors

Gauge:

The easiest way to check gauge is to crochet through Round 5 and measure the size of your hat. If it is very different, you will want to adjust hook sizes to match gauge.

After Round 5, my hat was 4 ¾” across. I had cinched it a little at the center, but the hole was still about 1/4” wide. If your hat is much larger or smaller than this, you may want to start over with a smaller or larger hook.

Sizing:

Pattern at this gauge will be a size Adult Small (19-20” band, 8.5” tall without pom pom)

Stitches Used:

(ch) chain
(sl st) slip stitch
(sc) single crochet
(hdc) half double crochet
(dc) double crochet
Special stitch: Crochet in the 3rd loop
[ ] stitches in brackets indicates any stitches in the bracket are placed in the same stitch

Where to find the 3rd loop:

Pattern Notes:

Beginning chain of each round does not count as a stitch.

I tend to crochet tightly. So be sure to check your gauge and if you are crocheting more loosely you can move to a smaller hook (or larger if you crochet even more tightly). Some people find they even need to go down two hook sizes to meet my gauge.

Pattern:

Chain 5. Join to the first chain with a sl st to make a circle.

(Note, if you like to use a magic circle technique to start a project in the round, you can substitute that for this step)

Round 1: Ch 2. [all stitches of this round should be crocheted around the tail so that you can use it to cinch the hole shut at the end] *Dc in the circle. Sc in the circle.* Repeat from * to * 5 more times. Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round. (12)

Round 2: Ch 1. [Sc, dc] in the same stitch and each stitch around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. (24)

Round 3: Ch 2. Dc in the same stitch. [Sc, dc] in the next stitch. Sc in the next stitch. [Dc, sc] in the next stitch. *Dc in the next stitch. [Sc, dc] in the next stitch. Sc in the next stitch. [Dc, sc] in the next stitch. *  Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round. (36)

Round 4: Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch. Dc in the next stitch. [Sc, dc] in the next stitch. *Sc in the next stitch. Dc in the next stitch. [Sc, dc] in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * until the end of the round. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. (48)

Round 5: Ch 2. Dc in the same stitch. Sc in the next stitch. Dc in the next stitch. [Sc, dc] in the next stitch. Sc in the next stitch. Dc in the next stitch. Sc in the next stitch. [Dc, sc] in the next st. *Dc in the next stitch. Sc in the next stitch. Dc in the next stitch. [Sc, dc] in the next stitch. Sc in the next stitch. Dc in the next stitch. Sc in the next stitch. [Dc, sc] in the next st.* Repeat from * to * until the end of the round. Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round. (60)

Note: This is a good spot to check your gauge. At this point my hat was 4 ¾” across. I had cinched it a little at the center, but the hole was still about 1/4” wide. If your hat is much larger or smaller than this, you may want to start over with a smaller or larger hook.

Round 6: Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch. Alternate dc, then sc in each of the next 8 stitches. [Dc, sc] in the next stitch. Alternate dc, then sc in each of the next 9 stitches. [Sc, dc] in the next stitch. Alternate sc, dc in the next 9 stitches. [Dc, sc] in the next stitch. Alternate dc, then sc in each of the next 9 stitches. [Sc, dc] in the next stitch. Alternate sc, dc in the next 9 stitches. [Dc, sc] in the next stitch. Alternate dc, then sc in each of the next 9 stitches. [Sc, dc] in the last stitch. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. (66)

Round 7: Ch 2. Dc in the same stitch. Sc in the next stitch. Alternate dc, sc around. Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round (66)

Round 8: Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch. Dc in the next stitch. Alternate sc, dc around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round (66)

Rounds 9-22: Repeat rounds 7 and 8.

At this point my hat was about 7 inches tall. This will create a hat with a small bit of slouch. If you want more or less slouch this is where you can add or remove repeat rows.

Turn the hat so that the “wrong side” of the stitching is on the outside of the hat (the side that will be visible). Depending on how you have been holding your hat as you go around, the “wrong” side may be on the “inside” of the hat or the “outside.” The “wrong” side is going to be bumpier and more textured than the “right” side and you will be able to see a little bit of a diagonal lining up of the texture (see photos below).

My personal preference is to have this “wrong side” on the visible, outward side of the hat. If you also prefer this side, be sure to position it on the outward side of the hat before moving on to round 23.

Round 23: Ch 1. Hdc in each stitch around (66). Join with a sl st to the first hdc. 

Round 24: Ch 1. Hdc (in the 3rd loop only) in the same stitch and each stitch around. Join with a sl st to the first hdc of the round. (66) (see photo for 3rd loop on page 2)

Rounds 25-27: Repeat round 24.

Finish off and weave in ends.

Add a pom pom.

Note: Feel free to sell finished products made with this pattern. If finished products are posted online, please include a reference/credit to this pattern. Do not distribute or claim the pattern as your own, or alter and use my photos to market your finished products.


More Free Patterns You Might Enjoy:

Peek-A-Boo Beanie

Creekbed Beanie

Twisted Chains Beanie


9 Comments

  1. Hi Esther!
    I Love All Your Beautiful Crochet Patterns!
    Thank You So Much for Sharing Your Creativity!
    You have an awesome family! I am also a mom of 3 boys, :-), plus 1 daughter.
    Blessings to You and Your Family.

  2. Thank you Esther for allowing me to test your pattern and for sharing your gift with us all! Definitely give this pattern a try…
    you won’t be disappointed.

  3. Hi. Such a beautiful hat. Thank you very much. Can you tell me what app you have used to edit the photo?

    1. Hi Tina, it means you place a dc in one stitch, then a sc in the next stitch, then a dc in the next, then a sc in the next (alternate from one to the other) for the rest of the row. Hope that helps!

    1. Unfortunately, I don’t have child sizes. You could possibly try to adapt it by starting from the band instead. Chain the length you want the band and hdc around, then hdc in the 3rd loop only for a few rows. Then alternate dc and sc for the rest of the hat until it is as tall as you want it and cinch it shut (or do some decreases at the top to make it less bunched). The number of stitches around just needs to be an even number.

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