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Crochet Scarf Pattern // Peek-A-Boo Scarf

Textured blue crochet scarf lying on white washed wood background. Clear beads and pinecones are also scattered on the backdrop. Text overlay says 'Free Crochet Pattern" Peek-A-Boo Scarf'.

If you liked the Peek-A-Boo Beanie Pattern I released last month, you will love this matching crochet scarf pattern! The alternating rows of crocheting in the 3rd loop and the seed stitch are a perfect contrasting pair.

The Origin of This Pattern

When I decided to make a scarf to match the Peek-A-Boo Beanie, I considered making a cowl (which I may still do!), but for some reason a long, full scarf just felt like it would really show off the texture of these stitches. 

I made the design extra long in order to really make this a bold statement piece. The total length at pattern gauge (not including fringe) is about 5 1/2 feet! That’s taller than me!

Textured blue crochet scarf and hat set, lying on white washed wood background. Clear beads and pinecones are also scattered on the backdrop.

The pattern is a little unconventional in that, in order to achieve the knit look of the crochet in the 3rd loop rows without working in the round, the instructions call for you to finish off after each 3rd loop row and connect back up at the beginning of the row. It’s a little tedious, but well worth it for the final effect.

And thankfully all those ends can easily be incorporated into the fringe, making for less weaving in!

The Yarn For This Pattern

This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive compensation (at no additional cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links.

For this crochet scarf pattern I chose to use the same yarn I used for the matching hat, Caron Simply Soft in Country Blue. I am an absolute sucker for a super soft yarn, so this was an instant favorite of mine.

Close up of the edge of blue textured crochet scarf on left and blue textured crochet beanie on the right. Both pieces lie on a white washed wood background. Glass beads also lie on the backdrop.

But what I also love about Caron Simply Soft is the pretty sheen that it has. It makes it an excellent choice for showing off anything with a beautiful texture. And this pattern has a lot of texture! I am very happy with how it turned out!

The Pattern

If  you would like to purchase an inexpensive, ad-free pdf version of this crochet scarf pattern, you can find it here at my Etsy shop.

Add this pattern to your Ravelry favorites HERE.

Materials:

Gauge:
1″ = 4 hdc

Stitches Used:
(sl st) slip stitch
(fhdc) foundation half double crochet 

(sc) single crochet
(hdc) half double crochet
(dc) double crochet
technique: crocheting in the 3rd loop

Note: Starting chains do not count as a stitch in this pattern. In other words, the Ch 1 or Ch 2 at the beginning of the row is not included in the stitch count for the row.

Video Tutorial:

Written Pattern:


Row 1: Fhdc 250. Finish off. (250) Note: If you plan to add fringe there is no need to weave in the tail, as this can be incorporated into the fringe.

Row 2: Attach yarn to the first stitch of the foundation row. (In other words, you are not turning and going back the other direction to the beginning of row 1. Instead you are jumping back to the beginning of row 1.) Ch 1. Hdc in the third loop only (see photo below) of the same stitch and all stitches across. Finish off. (250)

Row 3: Repeat row 2, except that you attach to the first stitch of Row 2 (rather than the foundation row). (250)

Row 4: Attach yarn to the first stitch of the last row. Ch 2. (Note: this row will also be done in the 3rd loop only) Dc in the same stitch. Sc in the next stitch. *Dc in next stitch. Sc in next stitch.* Repeat from * to * across. (250)

Row 5: Ch 2. Turn. (Note: this loop will no longer be done in the 3rd loop) Dc in the same stitch. Sc in the next stitch. *Dc in next stitch. Sc in next stitch.* Repeat from * to * across. (250)

Note: For rows 5 through 8, taller stitches will be placed in the shorter stitches of the previous row and vice versa. So, Dc will be placed in the Sc of the previous row and then the Sc will be placed in the Dc of the previous row.

Row 6: Ch 2. Turn. Dc in the same stitch. Sc in the next stitch. *Dc in next stitch. Sc in next stitch.* Repeat from * to * across. (250)

Row 7: Ch 2. Turn. Dc in the same stitch. Sc in the next stitch. *Dc in next stitch. Sc in next stitch.* Repeat from * to * across. (250)

Row 8: Ch 2. Turn. Dc in the same stitch. Hdc in the next stitch. *Dc in next stitch. Hdc in next stitch.* Repeat from * to * across. Finish off (250)

Row 9: Attach yarn to the first stitch of Row 8. Ch 1. Hdc in the third loop only of the same stitch and all stitches across. Note: the 3rd loop will have a slightly different placement, depending on whether it is a hdc or dc that is crocheted into. (See photo below.) Finish off. (250)

3rd loop crochet in dc

Row 10: Attach yarn to the first stitch of row 9. Ch 1. Hdc in the third loop only of the same stitch and all stitches across. Finish off. (250)

Rows 11 – 17: Repeat Rows 4-10 (250).

Row 18: Attach yarn to the first stitch of the last row. Ch 1. Hdc in the third loop only of the same stitch and all stitches across. Finish off. (250)

The two ends of the scarf will look un-even from the finishing off and joining so many times. But this will be hidden by the fringe. Add the fringe and if you have not weaved in your ends you can incorporate them in the fringe.

You can find a step by step tutorial for adding fringe, as well as hiding tails in the fringe, HERE:

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More Free Scarf Patterns You Might Enjoy:

Super Simple Super Soft Super Scarf

The Kimberly Scarf

The Ruthie Scarf

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Note: Feel free to sell finished products made with this pattern. If finished products are posted online, please include a reference/credit to this pattern. Do not distribute or claim the pattern as your own, or alter and use my photos to market your finished products.

43 Comments

    1. Hi Lori! It is 5 inches wide if you stop where the pattern stops. However, it is very easy to just continue the repeats if you like it wider. If you look on the Ravelry page you can see several examples in the Projects of people who have done that 🙂

      1. Hello!

        I have a couple questions:
        1. If I were to make the scarf wider, am I supposed to repeat rows 4-10?
        2. Do you have any advice on how to even out the two ends of the scarf without adding the fringe?

        Thank you!

        1. Hi Ava,

          1. yes, repeat rows 4-10
          2. You could choose to crochet a stitch of your choosing across each end for one or more rows. I have not tried this, so I can’t guarantee it as a good option, but it is really the only thing I can think of that could even it out enough to not need fringe.

          Hope that helps!

        1. Hi Jan! The foundation half double crochet stitch will allow you to do the beginning chain and first row of half double crochet at one time. However, if you don’t like the stitch or are having trouble with it, you can instead chain 251 and hdc in the 2nd chain from the hook and across (for 250 hdc in the first row).

  1. Hi
    Love the look of this scarf. I’m having trouble with row 5. I have 250 stitches; following the row 5 directions, I end up dbl crocheting in tall stitches. I’ve recounted and double checked my dblcrochet vs. single crochet stitches making sure I have the right count and correctly alternating stitches. I still end up dblcrocheting in the tall stitches. Is the double crochet stitch in the same stitch as turning chain 2 necessary?
    Please advise.
    Thanks,
    Claudia Hein

    1. Hi Claudia! Glad you like the scarf! When row 5 starts with a chain 2 and then instructs to dc in the “same stitch”, that means the same stitch you just chained out of… which should be the top of the sc you ended row 4 with. Then everything else after that should be alternating in the correct spot. If you skip crocheting your first dc into that first stitch (ending sc from row 4), then you will be starting with a dc in a dc. Does that make sense?

      1. Yes it makes sense except I didn’t end with a sc. I ended with a dc which unfortunately why I’m doing dc in the tall stitches. I’d rather not start from scratch, so I’ll continue the error.
        I had checked my count several times on more than one row and couldn’t find anything that could’ve caused my stitches to be out of step.
        So far scarf looks fine despite error.
        Thanks again
        CH

  2. I made the hat that matches this and I love it! I was wanting to make the scarf but would like it to be a little longer. Can I make my foundation chain 300 instead of 250? Does it have to be a multiple of a certain number?
    Thanks!

  3. Hello, I’m sorry, I really don’t understand how to start the second row and what is meant by “third loop”. Could you possibly post a video? I’ve read the instructions and looked at the pictures but the instructions are Greek to me.

  4. Thank you for sharing such lovely scarf and hat patterns. I’m presently working on the scarf and it is a fun project. Just wanted to add a comment concerning the photo following Row 9 of the Peek-A-Boo Scarf Pattern. If you happen to be a left-handed crocheter, the 3rd loop behind the double crochet will be slightly to the RIGHT behind the double crochet, not the left. I really appreciate all the instructional photos and references.

      1. We lefties have to learn to reverse certain crochet instructions because most patterns are written for people who are right-handed. It can get confusing at times if you are new to crocheting. Just finished the scarf, and I think it is one of the most beautiful things I have ever crocheted. Such a lovely pattern! Thank you again!

  5. I’m confused. On tow two it says to go back to first stitch and attach. That would make this an infinity scarf. Wouldn’t it? I mean attaching the two ends makes a loop. So I’m confused!

    1. Hi Cassi! You finish off at the end of the first row (cut your yarn) and re-attach your yarn at the beginning of the row. That is what allows you to crochet in the third loop in successive rows. I hope that makes sense!

  6. Have you considered doing a video? I am able to read and understand the pattern so far but I don’t think I’m doing it correctly. Lol. Or at least, it doesn’t look right to me.

  7. So if I’m just do a chain start instead of a HDCF row, do I just chain in multiples of 2? Do I have to add a chain for the turning chain?
    Thanks

    1. Hi Naomi, You would chain an odd number of stitches and add 1 for the turning chain. You would then hdc in the 2nd chain from the hook and in each chain across. You should end up with an odd # of stitches.

  8. Hi, beautiful pattern!

    When I go back to attach to the 2and row, I HDC in the front loop rather than the 3rd loop, is this correct? That is confusing me, I am not sure how to start on row 2!

    1. Hi Jessie. You will be crocheting in the 3rd loop for both rows 2 and 3. You are not turning at the end of each row, but finishing off and attaching to the beginning of the previous row (without turning). Let me know if this makes sense.

      1. Instead of finishing off each row and reattaching to the first stitch can I just chain and turn my work with the same results? I’m using a yarn that has blended colors and am afraid it will too disconnected

        1. Unfortunately, crocheting in the third loop of the hdc will look different going the opposite direction, which is why I chose to reattach each of these rows. You can use the method you are referring to and you will still get a striped look that contrasts with the lemon peel stitch of the other rows, but it will not look exactly the same. Feel free to give it a try and decide what your own preference is.

  9. Hello! Can you please help me figure out something before I proceed and do it wrong?

    1) I didn’t notice your link for the FHDC and watch a different video that had me start with chain 3 and HDC into the 3rd stitch from the hook. Does this already mess me up? I think that it will only make that row slightly taller than yours would be?

    2) Also, I went up to a 6.0 mm hook for the FHDC because I tend to crochet tightly. Should I continue with this same hook; switch back to the one you recommended starting on row two; or start over with recommended hook only. I don’t know how that will affect the end result. This will be my first project.

    Thanks in advance!

    1. Hi Laura! Regarding #1, I don’t think it will matter. A chain 2 or chain 3 at the start of a hdc row is mostly just a matter of personal preference. Regarding #2, I would continue with the 6 mm hook and pay attention to whether you feel the tension in the next row is the same as the first. if you feel it is more loose, then you could pull out that row and start again with a smaller hook. Hope that helps!

  10. Hi There, to start the second row, we start on the first stitch at the beginning without turning as you mentioned in previous comments. Does this mean that we are now crocheting from left to right instead of traditional right to left?

    1. You are still crocheting from right to left, but instead of turning and crocheting back the way you came (starting with the last stitch of the first row), you are finishing off at the end of row 1 and re-attaching your yarn back at the beginning of the first row. Hope that makes sense?

  11. I’m not sure how to start row 2… is there any photos or good links that might show how to attach the yarn/starting the stitch? Assuming we start with a slip knot, chain 1 and then put the hook through the 3rd loop? Having a hard time with this. 😊

    1. Hi Courtney. Different people have different preferences for attaching a new yarn. But here is how I would do it: Insert the hook into the stitch. Wrap the yarn around the hook and pull through. Chain 1 and continue with the pattern as written. Hope that helps!

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