Fringe Basket Crochet Pattern
This fringe basket crochet pattern is SO MUCH FUN!! The two tones, the two strands crocheted together, the herringbone and the fringe! It all has so much room for creativity and fun color choices!
Whether you want to use your basket as a plant holder or to hold other everyday items, it will add so much color and personality to a shelf or counter! Such a beautiful little project!
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THE ORIGIN OF THIS PATTERN
This was one of those patterns that was inspired by going down the rabbit hole on Instagram! I was scrolling home decor ideas and ran across a basket, on what I believe was Anthropologie’s page, and thought… I must make something like that! And I did!
Of course, mine was much smaller and more colorful and more round than the inspirational piece… but the main things that drew me to it – the two tone look and the fringe – came out exactly as I’d hoped!
I love it!
THE YARN FOR THIS PATTERN
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I chose this yarn specifically for the color (the one I used in the lower half of the basket)! The yarn is Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton in Emerald Pine. This colorway has very quick color changes in beautiful shades, which made it an ideal candidate for crocheting with two strands together. All the colors intermix to give it a beautiful speckled effect.
Besides the Emerald Pine colorway, there were several other colorways with similar color changes available. I had a very hard time picking which one to use!
Of course, the other reason I chose the yarn was because it is 100% cotton. Cotton is great for household items that might get dirty and need a wash every now and again. I probably would not wash this particular project in a washing machine, due to the fringe, but I think it would survive a gentle hand washing.
THE PATTERN
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Materials:
- Color A: 224 Yards (in 2 separate skeins) Size 4 Yarn (I used I Love This Cotton in Emerald Pine)
- Color B: 85 Yards (in 2 separate skeins) Size 4 Yarn (I used I Love This Cotton in Ivory)
- US K/ 6.5 mm Crochet Hook
- US N/ 9 mm Crochet Hook
- Yarn Needle
- Scissors
Gauge:
4” circle = 6 rows of single crochet as completed in the pattern
Sizing:
Base: 6 ¾” across
Height: 5” tall (however, with slouch it may stand more like 4” tall)
Fits a 6” plant pot with a slightly slouchy fit
Stitches Used:
(ch) chain
(sl st) slip stitch
(sc) single crochet
(dc) double crochet
(hsc) herringbone single crochet
How to Crochet the Herringbone Single Crochet:
Before beginning a row of herringbone sc, the first stich before the first herringbone sc must be a traditional sc. Then the herringbone stitch will work as follows: Slightly lift the loop on your hook before beginning. This will help loosen the tension, as this stitch is easy to make too tight. Insert hook into the left most bar of the previous single crochet stitch. Insert hook into the next stitch. Yo and pull up a loop. Lift slightly again on this last loop so the tension will loosen up. You will have 3 loops on your hook. Yo and pull through all 3 loops.
Pattern Notes:
Beginning chain of each round does not count as a stitch.
I tend to crochet tightly. So be sure to check your gauge (at round 6) and if you are crocheting more loosely you can move to a smaller hook (or larger if you crochet even more tightly). Some people find they even need to go down two hook sizes to meet my gauge.
This pattern is constructed using two strands of yarn held together.
Pattern:
Start with 2 strands of Color A crocheted together and your US K/ 6.5 mm Crochet Hook.
Round 1: Ch 2. Place 6 sc in the 2nd chain from the hook. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. (6)
Round 2: Ch 1. Place 2 sc in the same stitch. Place 2 sc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. (12)
Round 3: Ch 1. Place 2 sc in the same stitch. Place 1 sc in the next stitch. *Place 2 sc in the next stitch. Place 1 sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. (18)
Round 4: Ch 1. Place 2 sc in the same stitch. Place 1 sc in each of the next 2 stitches. *Place 2 sc in the next stitch. Place 1 sc in each of the next 2 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. (24)
Round 5: Ch 1. Place 2 sc in the same stitch. Place 1 sc in each of the next 3 stitches. *Place 2 sc in the next stitch. Place 1 sc in each of the next 3 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. (30)
Round 6: Ch 1. Place 2 sc in the same stitch. Place 1 sc in each of the next 4 stitches. *Place 2 sc in the next stitch. Place 1 sc in each of the next 4 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. (36)
Note: At this point your circle should be approximately 4” across. This is a good point to confirm that your gauge is correct and, if not, start over with a smaller or larger hook.
Round 7: Ch 1. Place 2 sc in the same stitch. Place 1 sc in each of the next 5 stitches. *Place 2 sc in the next stitch. Place 1 sc in each of the next 5 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. (42)
Round 8: Ch 1. Place 2 sc in the same stitch. Place 1 sc in each of the next 6 stitches. *Place 2 sc in the next stitch. Place 1 sc in each of the next 6 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. (48)
Round 9: Ch 1. Place 2 sc in the same stitch. Place 1 sc in each of the next 7 stitches. *Place 2 sc in the next stitch. Place 1 sc in each of the next 7 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. (54)
Round 10: Ch 1. Place 2 sc in the same stitch. Place 1 sc in each of the next 8 stitches. *Place 2 sc in the next stitch. Place 1 sc in each of the next 8 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. (60)
Note: At this point the base should be roughly 6 ¾” wide.
Round 11: Ch 1. Place 1 sc in the back loop of the same stitch and in the back loop of each stitch around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. (60).
Round 12: Ch 2. Dc in the same stitch. Sc in the next stitch. *Dc in the next stitch. Sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first dc of the round. (60)
Round 13: Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch. Dc in the next stitch. *Sc in the next stitch. Dc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. (60)
Rounds 14 – 18: Repeat Rounds 12-13. You will end on a repeat of round 12.
Use your favorite color change method to switch to 2 strands of Color B crocheted together. Finish off Color A and weave in ends.
Also, switch to an N hook. The herringbone single crochet is a stitch that is prone to having much tighter tension than other stitches. Switching to a larger hook will help, but you will also need to intentionally loosen your stitching as you go (see stitch instructions). However! This will also depend on your personal tension. If you find your stitches feel TOO loose after moving to the larger hook (especially if the edges start to lean out instead of straight up), you can switch back to the smaller hook.
Round 19: Ch 1. Sc in the same stitch. Hsc in the next stitch and in each stitch around. Join with a sl st to the beginning sc. (60)
Rounds 20 – 22: Repeat Round 19.
Finish off and weave in ends.
Optional: Add fringe to the stitches in round 20. I used 3 strands of Color B in each stitch. If you have never added fringe before, here is a tutorial on How To Add Fringe To A Crochet Project.
I added my fringe by inserting the hook from top to bottom and inserted through the front loop of the herringbone single crochet stitch.
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Note: Feel free to sell finished products made with this pattern. If finished products are posted online, please include a reference/credit to this pattern. Do not distribute or claim the pattern as your own, or alter and use my photos to market your finished products.
