This circle placemat crochet pattern has a unique texture with the use of the herringbone double crochet. It is a slightly taller stitch than a traditional double crochet and creates an increased slant towards the left
The yarn used in the pattern, Caron Cotton Ripple Cakes, adds a subtle uneven texture that is really pretty. It is a “thick/thin” yarn so it creates an unpredictable “bumpiness” that is perfect for a placemat. It is not too overbearing, but just enough to create interest.
This pattern is beautiful with self-striping yarn, but just as fun with a solid or variegated. If you make a set with self-striping would be fun since each placemat would turn out a little different.
Create a bohemian vibe by adding a short fringe!
The Origin Of This Pattern
This was one of those projects that came about from walking through the aisles of home decor stores and shopping online! I saw some really cute circular placemats with fun fringe and, like many crafters often do, I thought “I could make something like that!”
The designs I was drawn to were those with a little bit of texture, so I looked around for quite a while for the yarn that I thought would be just right!
The Yarn For This Pattern
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The yarn that I ended up choosing for this pattern was Caron Cotton Ripple Cakes. It is 100% cotton, which makes it perfect for something that needs to be washed regularly.
This yarn is also a “thick/thin” yarn, which means it is thicker in some parts and thinner in others. This can make it a tricky yarn to work with when you need your stitches to be really smooth and consistent, but it works perfectly for something that you want to have a little more texture.
The fringe is an optional element, but if you choose to add it, you’ll definitely want to consider how the yarn you use will hold up to washing. I used a fine/ Size 2 yarn (discontinued Red Heart Luster Sheen) to make a more delicate fringe. Since it is a cable/ crepe construction, I am hoping it does not fray super quickly and will hold up well with occasional washing.
If you would like to purchase an inexpensive, ad-free printable pdf version of this circle placemat crochet pattern, you can find it here at my Etsy shop.
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~ 168 Yards Size 3 Yarn (I used Caron Cotton Ripple Cakes in the color Wildflowers)
~ US H/ 5 mm Crochet Hook
~ Yarn Needle
~ Stitch Marker
After round 4, my circle was 4” across.
Final size (not including fringe): 14 1/2” across
(sl st) slip stitch
(sc) single crochet
(hdc) half double crochet
(hbdc) herringbone double crochet
I tend to crochet tightly. So, when you are checking your gauge, if you are crocheting more loosely you can move to a smaller hook (or larger if you crochet even more tightly). Some people find they even need to go down two hook sizes to meet my gauge.
If you find your gauge is not exact, but you are happy with the drape of your fabric and your circle is not curling or waving, you can choose to use your own gauge and just stop increasing rounds when you are happy with the size of the placemat.
Rather than ending each round with a join, you will be working in a continuous spiral. This means that when you reach the end of a round, rather than joining your last stitch to the first stitch of the round with a slip stitch, you will place the first stitch of the next round directly into the first stitch of the last round.
You will want to use a stitch marker to keep track of the end of each round.
The yarn that I used for this project was a thin/ thick yarn, which means that the thickness of the yarn changes throughout the strand. This created a unique “bumpy” texture to my stitches.
If you get a little bit of a wave to your circle, that is ok as long as it is easy to flatten out when you lay it on a table. If it will not lay flat, you may need to adjust your gauge.
Ch 5. Join with a sl st to the first chain to create a circle (or if you prefer, start with a magic circle).
Round 1: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch). Hbdc 10 times in the circle (If you crochet around the tail as well, you can use this as a draw string to tighten the hole in the center). (10)
Do not join to the first stitch of the round, but instead work in a continuous spiral by placing the first stitch of each round directly into the first stitch of the last round. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the last stitch of each round.
Round 2: 2 hbdc in each stitch around. (20)
Round 3: 1 hbdc in the first stitch. 2 hbdc in the next. *1 hbdc in the next stitch. 2 hbdc in the next.* Repeat from * to * around. (30)
Round 4: 1 hbdc in the first stitch. 1 hbdc in the next stitch. 2 hbdc in the next. *1 hbdc in each of the next 2 stitches. 2 hbdc in the next.* Repeat from * to * around. (40)
You can stop and check your gauge here. At this point my circle was 4” across (diameter). If your gauge is larger or smaller, this is a good point to start over with a larger or smaller hook. OR if you’re happy with the fabric drape, you can just keep going at your gauge and then stop increasing when you reach the width desired on the last round, as opposed to ending at the exact number of rounds stated in pattern.
Round 5: 1 hbdc in the first stitch. 1 hbdc in each of the next 2 stitches. 2 hbdc in the next. *1 hbdc in each of the next 3 stitches. 2 hbdc in the next.* Repeat from * to * around. (50)
Rounds 6 – 16: Continue to increase each round by increasing the number of stitches between each hbdc pair (increase) by 1 per round. This should increase each round by 10 stitches. By round 16, you should have 14 hbdc between each pair of hbdc and a total of 160 hbdc for the round.
To fade your work out slowly, after your last round, complete the following: 1 hbdc in the next stitch. 1 hdc in the next stitch, 1 hdc in the next stitch, 1 sc in the next stitch, sl st into the next stitch. Finish off and weave in ends. (If you want to keep the theme going in the last details and use herringbone hdc rather than traditional hdc, feel free to substitute. I just do not have instructions for the herringbone hdc in this pattern).
I chose to add a fringe to the edge of my placemat. I used a fine/ Size 2 yarn (discontinued Red Heart Luster Sheen) to make a more delicate fringe. I like using this type of yarn for fringe because it is a cable/ crepe construction, so it does not fray super quickly and I am hoping it will hold up well with occasional washing.
I used about 6 strands (5” each) for each fringe and placed one fringe in roughly every other stitch of the final round. However, since I used a thin/thick yarn for my project, it made some of the stitches a little inconsistent in size. So, some of my stitches were wider than others and I found I needed to add a few extra pieces of fringe to make it look even.
I cut my final fringe to 1” each.
Here is a tutorial on How To Add Fringe, if you need it:
Note: Feel free to sell finished products made with this pattern. If finished products are posted online, please include a reference/credit to this pattern, including a link. Do not distribute or claim the pattern as your own, or alter and use my photos to market your finished products.
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