Checkered Hot Pad | Free Crochet Pattern

This checkered crochet hot pad would make such a cute addition to your kitchen! Whatever color scheme you need, you’re sure to be able to find some yarn colors to match!

I like to pick a neutral with a solid color for my checkered pieces, but I have seen some really fun checkered patterns that use a solid paired with a contrasting variegated yarn!

If you are loving the “checkered” trend, here are some more checkered patterns to enjoy: Checkered Coasters, Checkered Crossbody Bag.

Your Hot Pad Should Be Double Sided!

I ALWAYS make my hot pads double sided! Since crocheted items are by nature full of gaps and holes, one layer is just not safe enough. There is a very good chance your finger is going to poke through somewhere and make contact with something hot.

So, this checkered crochet hot pad pattern, like all my other hot pad patterns, is two layers thick. While some of my other hot pad patterns incorporate different stitches or color patterns for each layer, for this one I chose to have both sides exactly the same. That way you can enjoy the checkered pattern no matter which direction you are holding it.

If you’re interested in my other crochet hot pat patterns as well, your can check them out here: Circle Crochet Hot Pad, Extra Thick Crochet Hot Pad.

What Kind of Yarn Should You Use For Your Crochet Hot Pad?

The best yarn for a crochet hot pad is a 100% cotton yarn. The biggest reason is that it does not melt. Acrylic yarns are not as heat resistant and can melt or drip. Since the functional purpose of your hot pad is to come into contact with hot things, this is a very important quality of cotton.

A secondary factor is that cotton yarn holds up well to washing. Your hot pad is going to get very dirty and need regular washings! The durability of cotton yarn for washing and drying is a great benefit!

The Pattern

If  you would like to purchase an inexpensive, ad-free printable pdf version of this checkered crochet hot pad pattern, you can find it here at my Etsy shop.

Add this checkered crochet hot pad pattern using cotton yarn to your Ravelry favorites HERE.

Materials:

• 81 Yards Size 4 colored Cotton Yarn (I used I Love This Cotton in Sage)
• 65 Yards Size 4 neutral Cotton Yarn (I used I Love This Cotton in Ivory)
• US H/ 5 mm Crochet Hook
• Yarn Needle
• Scissors

Gauge:
4” x 4” swatch of dc stitches = 18 dc stitches x 8 rows

Sizing:
finished hot pad is 8” x 8”

Stitches & Abbreviations Used:
(ch) chain
(sl st) slip stitch                                                        
(sc) single crochet
(dc) double crochet
(yo) yarn over

Helpful Video Tutorials:
How to Change Colors When Crocheting
How to Carry Your Yarn When Crocheting

Pattern Notes:

Beginning chain of each row does not count as a stitch.

I tend to crochet tightly. Gauge is not terribly important for this pattern since it is not a wearable item. However, if you feel your stitches are too loose, you may want to go down a hook size or two. Tension will also effect how well your carried yarn is hidden (see next paragraph).

For this pattern you will be using the method of “carrying” your yarn. This enables you to switch colors frequently without having to finish off and weave in lots of ends. To carry the yarn, after switching colors, you will hold the strand of yarn that you are not using along the top of the last row as you stitch. Treat the strand as if it is part of the top of your last row and insert your new stitches around the strand, just as you would stitch around the chains of the previous row. See this video tutorial on carrying yarn if you need further help.

Here are 2 tips to help you to keep your “carried” color from showing through: 1) Every once in a while (usually after you’ve finished a few stitches of one color) give the “carried” yarn a gentle tug. Not so much as to warp your fabric, but just enough to make sure it is taught. This will keep it at the center of your work. 2) Make sure your weave is tight (or dense) enough. A more loose fabric will make it easier to see through it.

Every time you make a color change, you will do so at the end of the last stitch of the previous color. So, if you end your main color with a dc stitch, on your final yarn over and pull through of that stitch, you will drop the main color and yarn over and pull through with the new color.

In order to create a thick hot pad, you will follow the instructions below twice to make two sides and then sew them together at the end.

Pattern (make 2):

Using your main color (not neutral), chain 34.

Row 1: Dc in the 3^rd chain from the hook. Dc in each of the next 3 stitches. On the last stitch, change colors to your neutral. While carrying your first color, dc in the next 4 stitches. Change back to your main color. While carrying your neutral color, dc in the next 4 stitches. Change to your neutral color. While carrying your main color, dc in the next 4 stitches. Continue to place a dc in each stitch, switching colors after every 4 stitches, until you reach the end of the row. Your last 4 stitches of the row will be the opposite color as the first 4 stitches. (32)

Note: For all the subsequent rows you will continue to carry the yarn that you are not currently stitching with. I will no longer note this in the pattern, but you should continue to do it for the remainder of the rows.

Row 2: Chain 1 with both colors. Then chain 1 again with only your neutral color (the color you will be using next). This will line your carried yarn up in the right place for the next row. Turn. Dc in the same stitch and the next 3 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Continue to place a dc in each stitch, switching colors after every 4 stitches, until you reach the end of the row. (32)

Note: The next row will be the same but switching the placement of the colors to begin the checkered pattern.

Row 3: Chain 1 with both colors. Then chain 1 again with only your neutral color (the color you will be using next). Turn. Dc in the same stitch and the next 3 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Continue to place a dc in each stitch, switching colors after every 4 stitches, until you reach the end of the row. (32)

Row 4: Chain 1 with both colors. Then chain 1 again with only your main color (the color you will be using next). Turn. Dc in the same stitch and the next 3 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Continue to place a dc in each stitch, switching colors after every 4 stitches, until you reach the end of the row. (32)

Row 5: Chain 1 with both colors. Then chain 1 again with only your main color (the color you will be using next). Turn. Dc in the same stitch and the next 3 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Continue to place a dc in each stitch, switching colors after every 4 stitches, until you reach the end of the row. (32)

Row 6: Chain 1 with both colors. Then chain 1 again with only your neutral color (the color you will be using next). Turn. Dc in the same stitch and the next 3 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Change colors. Dc in the next 4 stitches. Continue to place a dc in each stitch, switching colors after every 4 stitches, until you reach the end of the row. (32)

Rows 7 – 14: Repeat Rows 3 – 6.

Border:

(Note: This is a border for each individual side, not the border that will connect both sides together. That will come next.)

After row 14, drop your neutral color and chain 1 with the main color (you can finish off the neutral color yarn and stop carrying it, as you will no longer need it for the remainder of the pattern). Turn and sc across the top of the row (1 sc in each stitch, 32 stitches). Place 1 additional sc in the last stitch. Now begin to work down the side. Place 2 sc in the side of each dc, for a total of 28 stitches.  Place 1 additional stitch in the corner. Work across the bottom of the pot holder in the beginning chain, placing 1 sc in each chain, for a total of 32 sc across. Place 1 additional sc in the corner. Work up the side in the same manner as the opposite side (28 sc). Place one final sc in the last corner. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the border. Total of 124 stitches around (32 on top and bottom, 28 on each side and an extra in each corner)

Finish off and weave in ends for the first side. When you complete the second side, do not finish off, but move on to the final step of connecting the two sides.

Sewing the 2 Sides Together:

Once the two sides are complete, stack them on top of each other so that the sides (28 stitches each) are lined up with each other and the top and bottom (32 stitches) are lined up with each other. If you want the checkered pattern to line up the same on each side, make sure they are placed how you like them now.

Make sure the side that your yarn is still attached to is on the bottom of the stack. With your hook still in place where you left off, from top to bottom, insert the hook through the same corner stitch of both sides (attaching the two sides together). Yo and draw up a loop. Yo and pull through both loops to complete a single crochet. Now, sc in each stitch around, going through both loops of both sides for each sc. This will sew the two sides together and create a final border row. (124 stitches around). After you have crocheted all the way around, join with a sl st to the first sc. Finish off and weave in your ends!