The simplicity if this crochet blanket wrap pattern is what makes it special! Besides the ribbed edging, this project is made entirely out of single crochet in the front loop only. The neat and tidy look of the lines created by this stitch is so pleasing to the eye.
I can attest to the fact that this piece is true to it’s name of ‘blanket wrap’! The day that we took the photos for this pattern was a very chilly one and I was super happy to get the comforting weight of this wrap over my shoulders! This stitch with a size 4 yarn is not too heavy, but it is definitely dense enough to really keep the warmth in.
Like a Blanket, but less work!
This crochet blanket wrap pattern was literally inspired by an actual blanket! I saw a beautiful blanket in the store that had clean lines and a neatly ribbed edging. I loved the classy look of it and when I noted that it looked crocheted, I also noted that I could probably make myself one just like it!
However, I am not a big fan of making blankets! Despite the fact that I adore a big, cozy cover, I don’t have the patience for making larger projects like that myself! After a brief moment of disappointment I realized I could come up with a compromise.
I decided I would make a version of the blanket that could just serve as a shoulder wrap. I could enjoy creating those beautiful lines, I could snuggle up in the yarny goodness, but I would not have to do quite as much work! Perfect solution!
The Yarn for this Crochet Wrap
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I chose one of my all time favorite yarns for this pattern, Lion Brand Heartland! This yarn has a wonderful selection of rich color choices. I especially loved this ‘Gateway Arch’ color way for Fall!
The colors also have a beautiful heathered look, with some lighter shades sprinkled in. It creates a depth and texture that makes it unique.
Besides the beautiful color options, Heartland yarn is also trustworthy in the comfort department. It is soft and sleek without being too slippery. It is incredibly nice to the touch and I love working with it.
If you would like to purchase an inexpensive, ad-free printable pdf version of this crochet blanket wrap pattern, you can find it here at my Etsy shop.
Add this crochet blanket wrap pattern to your Ravelry favorites HERE.
- 1110 Yards Size 4 Yarn (I used Lion Brand Heartland in Gateway Arch)
- US I9/ 5.5 mm Crochet Hook
- Yarn Needle
Gauge is not terribly important for this pattern since it is not a fitted item and it is easily resized. However, if you would like to match gauge, follow the gauge notes in the instructions for the beginning edging.
20” wide and 54 ½” long
Note: ribbed edging will measure a little narrower, at about 19 ½” wide
(sl st) slip stitch
(sc) single crochet
(fsc) foundation single crochet
(sc blo) single crochet back loop only
(sc flo) single crochet front loop only
Beginning chain of each row does not count as a stitch.
Gauge is not terribly important for this pattern since it is not a fitted item. However, if you would like to match gauge, you can follow the gauge notes in the instructions for the beginning edging. For reference, I tend to crochet tightly. Some people find they even need to go down two hook sizes to meet my gauge. If you feel your work is too tight or too loose, feel free to try using a larger or smaller hook to get the drape you want.
This project is very simple to resize to your own preferences. For project width, just add or remove rows from the beginning edging instructions. To adjust the length of the project, just add or remove rows from the body portion of the instructions.
Construction of the project begins with the first lower edging, or ribbing, of the wrap worked in short rows. Once complete, it will be turned horizontally and the body of the wrap will be worked into the long side of the ribbed edging. To finish off, a matching ribbed edge will be constructed across the final row of the wrap.
Row 1: Fsc 15, or to about 3 inches. (15) If you would like your edging to be “taller” or “shorter” than 3 inches, you can add or remove stitches here.
If you prefer not to use foundation stitches, you can chain 16 instead. Sc in the 2nd chain from the hook and in each chain across. (15)
Row 2: Ch 1. Turn. Sc in the same stitch. Sc blo in each of the next 13 stitches. Sc in the last stitch. (15)
Row 3 – 95: Repeat Row 2.
Note about gauge: After row 14 of my edging, my project was about 3” from top to bottom and my rows were 3 1/2” across.
After row 95, my edging was about 19 ½” from top to bottom. This will be the width of your scarf. If you would like to adjust this measurement to be wider or narrower, you can add or subtract rows here.
Do not finish off.
Row 1: Ch 1. Turn so you will be working along the long side of the edging that is closest to your final stitch. Sc into the end of each row of ribbing. (95)
Row 2: Ch 1. Turn. Sc flo in the same stitch and in each stitch across, except the last stitch. In the final stitch, place 1 sc. (95)
Rows 3 – 102: Repeat Row 2. (95)
At this point my project was about 51” from top to bottom (including initial edging). You can adjust the length of your project here by adding or removing rows. The next step of adding the final edging will add about 3 ½ more inches to the project.
Adding the final edge:
Row 1: Chain 16. Sc in the 2nd chain from the hook and in each chain across (back towards the project body) (15)
When you get to the body of the project, sl st into the next stitch in the project body (not the one you chained out of). Sl st into the next stitch as well. Ch 1. Turn to work back up Row 1 of edging.
Row 2: Sc blo into each of the next 14 stitches of row 1. Sc in the last stitch. (15)
Row 3: Ch 1. Turn (to work back towards the project body) Sc in the same stitch. Sc blo in each of the next 14 stitches. (15)
When you get to the body of the project, sl st into the next stitch in the project body. Sl st into the next stitch as well. Ch 1. Turn to work back up the edging.
Rows 4 – 95: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you reach the last stitch of the body.
Note: If you find your rows begin to create a “fish tail”, meaning the rows are getting wider and leaning outward, instead of laying straight, you may be inserting your first slip stitch on the repeats of row 3 in the wrong stitch. You might be inserting the slip stitch one stitch too close to your current row, resulting in too many rows. Try moving one stitch over and see if that helps.
If you end on a repeat of Row 3 (this will happen if you complete a repeat of row 3 and there is only 1 stitch left on the project). Complete the row 3 repeat and instead of slip stitching to the next two at the end of the row, slip stitch into the last stitch only and finish off.
If you end on a repeat of row 2 (this happens if your last two slip stitches on the last row were done in the last 2 stitches available in the body of the project). Complete the repeat of row 2 and finish off at the end of the row.
Weave in your ends!
Note: Feel free to sell finished products made with this soft crochet cowl pattern. If finished products are posted online, please include a reference/credit to this pattern. Do not distribute or claim the pattern as your own, or alter and use my photos to market your finished products.